new beekepper question

[Brooklyn]

What do you mean by keeping everything the same size? Can you purchase medium hive bodies just like the medium supers?

What is the difference between commercial grade , Select, and standard wood?

Is it better to by complete kits or get everything separate.

Are wax frames better the plastic.

I have read several books and just like the internet they all say something a little different

Everyone thanks for your help so far.

[brac]

I'll take the first question. A medium hive body is a medium super. One has brood, one has honey, same exact box.

[Brooklyn]

Thanks Brac

[ccar2000]

I did some searches and plagiarized some data just to get you some answers.

What do you mean by keeping everything the same size? Can you purchase medium hive bodies just like the medium supers?

You can use supers and hive bodies interchangeably. Mediums hold 60lbs of honey and deeps hold 90lbs. Maybe lifting the deeps would be a concern. I am running two deeps for brood boxes and medium supers for honey.

What is the difference between commercial grade , Select, and standard wood?

Select: A grade that is truly "selected" which allows only very small tight knots and no deviations in the joints, rabbets, or hand holds. Our woodenware is manufactured from hand selected ponderosa pine. Each board has been carefully moisture-metered to assure its proper moisture content before it is precision milled into the finished product. All our hive bodies have "pre-drilled" holes for nails to prevent splitting during assembly. Handholds are taper cut for easy gripping - Moisture Metered before cutting to prevent warping - Uniform Interlocking Joints for strength - Ponderosa Pine from the Northwest, the best wood for the job - Uniform Frame Rests provides the proper "Bee Space" - Nails not included, not assembled. Minimum order quantity is 11.

Commercial: The most widely used by commercial beekeepers. Tight knots are allowed where they occur except in the Joint and Rabbet. Our woodenware is manufactured from hand selected ponderosa pine. Each board has been carefully moisture-metered to assure its proper moisture content before it is precision milled into the finished product. All our hive bodies have "pre-drilled" holes for nails to prevent splitting during assembly. Handholds are taper cut for easy gripping - Moisture Metered before cutting to prevent warping - Uniform Interlocking Joints for strength - Ponderosa Pine from the Northwest, the best wood for the job - Uniform Frame Rests provides the proper "Bee Space" - Nails not included Not assembled Minimum order quantity is 11.


Is it better to by complete kits or get everything separate.

For me, shipping assembled units was more expensive but I wanted them preassembled. If you have the time and can put them together yourself you will save some bucks

Are wax frames better the plastic.

There are plastic frames, or wood frames and there is wax foundation and wax coated plastic foundations. I like the traditional wood frames with plastic foundation as a beginner. You can get darker colors of plastic foundation that makes it easier to see eggs.

I have read several books and just like the internet they all say something a little different

Keep reading but, many here on this site say to keep in mind that the bees don’t read. They will do what they need to do to survive. Don’t get overexcited or overreact without thinking thing through.

Everyone thanks for your help so far.

Good luck, it’s a lot of fun and very interesting.

[brac]

All good advise, however I have been told by many in my area that bees don't like to build up plastic. Haven't tried any myself, but I have seen video of getting the old comb off them and redipping them, and looks like far too much work for me. Also many folks buil their own boxes.

[LenInNorCal]

If you ask five beekeepers one question you will get 9 answers; and that is before two of them storm off in a huff!
I would urge you to build your own hives at this time of year. It's a bit of a trouble but you may appreciate it more.
Depending on your age and physicality, that can help you determine if mediums or deeps are the way to go. Our local expert has decided in his adage that mediums are the way to go for everything, that is brood boxes (rearing) and supers (honey). Seems bad backs and tired legs take their toll over time.
Hook up with a local bee group and that will far surpass this internet thingy. God luck.
PS: don't go "plastic" is the only real advice I would give you.

[Fuzzy]

For all of you who don't like plastic.....

I have five hives, only use wax coated plastic (plasticell), and average 4 supers of honey per hive.... Every year !!!

Bees DON'T CARE !!

Fuzzy

[sfisher]

Brookly, were are you going to get your bees?

[Ravenseye]

The size question is easy enough. Yes, you can interchange equipment and there's something to be said for using all the same size. I'm on all mediums now but have saved some of my old deeps to go around feeder pails when syrup is on the colonies.

Wood grade is a matter of choice. If you're looking to paint boxes, the lower the grade the more knots there will be that will bleed through your paint job. So long as the joints fit well, the bees won't care too much. A lot of it depends on what you expect from the wood, how you intend to finish it and how much you have to spend.

I prefer to assemble everything myself. You may not. Again, the choice may depend on price and what you're willing to spend.

I'm a wood/wax person. I don't like plastic anything. I don't like the thought of plastic frames eventually having to go into the trash or even having to be recycled. I don't want to have to melt wax to re-coat plastic frames. I don't like that wax frames are drawn out last in boxes with mixed plastic and wood frames. When I get a nuc, it often has plastic frames coming from beekeepers that swear by them so they obviously work....just not well enough for me. It's your choice. Again, price and time may affect your decision.

I suggest that you try to balance what you can afford to do...time and dollars....with what your goals are and but only what you need. Spend more dollars and time on books and forums. Take everything with a grain of salt and recognize that beekeeping...like anything else, isn't all that straightforward.

We're here to help!

[tecumseh]

it is a long established TRUTH that the bees deal with wood frames and plain old wax much better than anything that looks like extruded plastic. other considerations like thousands of little niche for the shb in the frame's structure also makes plastic a very much less attractive alternative for me.

I have a few plastic frames here and I don't care for them much. I have been told that adding another layer of beewax to the face of the plastic frames and then spraying with a bit of sugar water and honey bee healthy translates into the bees working these quicker.

I think to some degree 'writers' (are they really beekeepers?) have convinced folks that wood frames and plain old bee wax foundations are difficult to construct. like many things in the construction world a little understanding of what you desire as an end product, a bit of practice and one or two 'tools' makes the task easier than some folks suggest.

[DavidBee]

With regard to the "size" question: Obviously you can't use 10 frame and 8 frame boxes together. Otherwise, you can use deep. medium, and shallow bodies as you and the girls agree upon.

[LenInNorCal]

For all of you who don't like plastic.....
I have five hives, only use wax coated plastic (plasticell), and average 4 supers of honey per hive.... Every year !!!
Bees DON'T CARE !!
Fuzzy

Good point.
But I am not asking them if they care. I observe note.
They build out most often on wax before plastic.
So I suppose one can say they "prefer"!