Clarifier VS Sump

[Stonefly7]

A simple question for you larger or mid sized operators. Were tired of the bucket brigade, and are going to expand next spring. Which do you use and why?

Priced a clarifier at maxant, $895, vs a sump at Kelly, $285. Very close to same capacity. I understand one is water jackted and one is emersion heated. Both have a baffle system, both SS. Why the huge difference in cost? I believe both accomplish the same goal?

Maybe someone can enlighten me who has worked with both systems, or can suggest something better. I tried a search, but no discussion on this subject.

Thanks in advance.

[bermybee]

Well we use a Dadant controller1 sump (one of the best upgrades we made). It's a multi baffled sump with a float switch. But you can't beat the water jacketed type of sump no matter who makes it.
1. The heat has a larger surface area and travels through the whole tank via water instead of being concentrated around the element itself. So you can heat more honey faster and more uniformly.
2. Unlike just sticking a heating element directly in the honey where around the element itself could be 500 degrees + and 20 degrees on the heat sensor. In a water heated system the water circulates heat more evenly and would boil off before it has a chance to severely burn honey.
3. Honey as it sits impurities (wax, air bubbles, etc) rise or fall, by heating the process is sped up because the honey thins out (the viscosity drops). This is how the baffle system works. By forcing the honey to go under then over the baffles the impurities are held back.
4. The pumping of honey is made fast and easier when honey is warm and some sumps (like the one I mentioned) have float switches that keep the honey at the right level by automatically turning on and off the pump.

The price difference, well that has to do with quality. All the equipment Maxant and Dadant make are welded not soldered together like the Kelley stuff. Maxant and Dadant both use a thicker twenty gauge metal Kelley uses a thinner 24 gauge. I know for a fact that Dadant comes with a top, sunk in drain hole, multi ""removable""(still not sure this is a good thing I think it has something to do with expanding and flexing/bowing metal when the sump is empty and the water jacket is full or it just makes welding easier) baffles and float switch for no extra cost.
The model Maxant your talking about has 1 baffle and I think has a sunk in drain hole. I don’t think that model comes with a float switch or top but it does have a site glass. Both the Maxant and Dadant models come with high quality heaters the Kelley’s heater and I think drain and inlet is an extra expense.

[Stonefly7]

Thanks Bermy for responding. I was begining to think no one knew or no one wanted to share info about such a mundane item of interest.

I will stick to the water jacketed tank based on the attributes you shared. I am going to look at a barely used WK, 20 gal, water jacketed, several baffels, float sensor, sight glass, etc. The larger models at Max are quite expensive. Trying for a one time expansion in the HH to meet 300 hive capacity. A lady wants to sell a 33WK and a 20 gal clairifier for 2K. I would rather have a Max product, but a deal is a deal I guess.

[bermybee]

:thumbsup: sounds good, but I would thoroughly check both items in person before I bought them if you haven't already. Keep my quote in mind. I did the same thing did a one time expansion from a 12 frame extractor and double strainer to the set up I have now.http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/ss61/bermybee/ I’m not saying it happened over night. I did however spend a lot of time and money making sure what ever I got was The Best and would work with a 60 frame extractor or two 30 framers so I wasn't buying redundant equipment .
I don’t know what type of pump your looking to get or have but if I was you I would defiantly make sure I got the right one ;) that is the key to happiness :D.
One last thing, just because a product has a particular brand name doesn’t necessarily mean it’s the best or even worth the extra money. make your choices based on Facts and not Opinions especially when it comes to Beekeeping.

[odfrank]

How do you filter the honey after the sump?

[bermybee]

How do you filter the honey after the sump?

Sorry who's this question adressed too?

[odfrank]

Sorry who's this question adressed too?

Any one who can offer an improvement on this:

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t7/odfrank/socks2-060001.jpg

[bermybee]

Any one who can offer an improvement on this:


How can you improve on perfection?:):applause:

Well you could either use a inline filter:thumbsup: from Manlake or Dadant which would be like the filter we use, or a Maxant 200 model.

Keep in mind you need around 100 degree honey and your pump will need to have a pressure relief valve to hook up an inline. Also for the inline you will have to have a good pump that preferably has a flow rate of around 5 g.p.m. A few people have complained about there 1 inch pumps just not having enough power/flow.:eek:

[Stonefly7]

As you mentioned Bermy, A 1.5 in pump is well worth the investment. Man that picture is nice! Is the honey warm enough??