Condensation problem and feeding question

[creekroad]

The nights are starting to get cool here in central Ohio and I have seen condensation on the bottom of outer lid. Just recently I read that mositure is what kills bees during winter rather than the cold. I need to fix this problem. I am also feeding 2-1 with my miller feeder how much longer should I go before removing feeder?

[Ski]

I would feed as long as you need to keep building the winter stores and the temp during the day is above 50 degrees F. You could also add an upper entrance to let the moisture out as well as add some granulated sugar on some newspaper on the uppermost top bars. Mountain camp method.

[Michael Palmer]

First the feeding question...

You should feed enough to reach a target weight. What's that? The weight of the hive, bees, honey, pollen, that when reached will see the colony through your winter, and into the spring. Hopefully, until Willow or Dandelion bloom.

Really simple to arrive at. The weight of a two story colony, outer cover off, full of bees, with no honey, weighs about 70 lbs. If you need 80 pounds of stores, your target weight would be 140. Feed until it weighs. If you have an extra super on the colony, add 15 pounds for the extra equipment. Your target weight would go up to 155.

In following years, you can tweak up or down your target weight, according to your own area and bees.

For the moisture question...

You're going to have moisture at this point. You're feeding 2:1. They have to ripen it, getting rid of some of the water. It's going to condense on the cold cover. Really not a problem at this time of the year. In the winter it's a problem. Finish feeding as soon as you can so the excess moisture in the hive will be gone. With a Miller feeder and warm weather, ther bees can take down several gallons a week.

Remove feeder. Replace inner cover with rim down and entrance notch in the front. Tape closed inner cover escape hole. Place 2"x16"x20" piece of foam insulation on inner cover. It helps to scrape off the burr comb on inner so foam sits directly on wood.

Wide open bottom entrance with 1/2"x4"xwidth of bottom entrance piece of hardware cloth. With this setup, you won't have a moisture problem. I don't in Vermont. You won't need to use any granulated sugar on newspaper either. The bees will ripen the syrup, and cap it as they would honey. With their feed in the comb, they can winter with a nice quiet cluster. The way they would without our interferance.

[chevydmax04]

I am a newbie to this but I am going to throw this out there. What about drilling some 3/8 or 1/2 inch holes in the side of the top super, covering them with hardware cloth and using those to allow moisture to escape.

[bubbarex]

The explanation of a target weight for a hive seems very scienturgical and makes sense, but is there a practical method for weighing a hive?

I am also a newbie and my hives have struggled (leading to lots of undesired, but appreciated experience). I am currently wringing my hands about how much to feed for winter. It would be a real season topper to have my hives starve this winter, or to get them completely syrup bound and not have enough bees for the cluster...

[Michael Palmer]

The explanation of a target weight for a hive seems very scienturgical and makes sense, but is there a practical method for weighing a hive?

I use a package scale I bought at WW Grainger for about $75.

My hivestands are 2x4 on edge. Same height as the outer covers. I place the scale on a piece of plywood so it will slide onto the stand. I place it all on the cover. Tip the hive sideways. Slide plywood and scale under hive. Tip hive up onto sacle. Balance. Read weight.

Hive scale:

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff61/frenchhill/packagescale1.jpg

Tip hive sideways:

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff61/frenchhill/weighinghives3.jpg

Tip onto scale, read weight:

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff61/frenchhill/weighinghives2.jpg

Or, you could do it the old fashioned way. :-) Better yet...Don't.

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff61/frenchhill/springscale2.jpg

[Michael Palmer]

Ooops. Reverse order of slide 2 and 3.
Mike

[My-smokepole]

Local inspector suggest drilling two holes top box 1/2" at a upper slope say 3"in from the outer edge and two" down. For moisture control
David/toledo

[Ski]

Instead of drilling holes in good supers why not put a popsicle stick on top of each corner of the inner cover as some others have suggested in the past. This would provide ventilation and still keep other bees out.

[chrissv]

Instead of drilling holes in good supers why not put a popsicle stick on top of each corner of the inner cover as some others have suggested in the past. This would provide ventilation and still keep other bees out.

I tried the popsicle stick trick, and my bees propolized the gap closed!

[StevenG]

What about the popsicle trick between the inner cover and the outer, telescoping cover? is the oval hole in the inner cover large enough to allow moisture and air to rise into the gap between the inner and outer cover, and then vent out?

[J-Bees]

why not just make 4 - 3/4"x3/4"x3/4" blocks place one on each corner and the mosture goes out.....

[Ski]

StevenG,
Do a search on popsicle and you will find many ideas for ventilation including the popsicle sticks.