Dipping Tbhs

[BWrangler]

Hi Guys,

I just hate painting bee equipment. Would like to dip them but think it would require a ton of wax and a very big vat.

Anyone have experience dipping tbhs? Would a long shallow pan, that would dip one side at a time, work? Would that much surface area create an excessive fire hazard?

How about dipping the parts before assembling them?

Any other types of dipping work. Linseed + ???

Ideas?

I'll only have a few tbhs.

Regards
BWrangler

[peletier]

As you say, dipping would require a big vat and a lot of liquid. I have brushed on boiled linseed oil with good results. Just slop it on and let it soak in. I think it would be fine on the inside, too, but I haven't tried that yet. Linseed oil can be re-coated, and can be painted over with oil based paint.

Just remember, boiled linseed oil "dries", raw oil stays sticky.:no:

[umbriel971]

I have had good luck heating boiled linseed oil <1 litre> with one pound of beeswax in a double boiler until the beeswax is melted and then "painting" the exterior of the TBH with the mixture. IMO dipping would be a challenge due to the dimensions of the hive.

Matt

[Michael Bush]

I dipped some of mine in the beeswax/rosin mix. Others still had bees in them...

I could only do one end at a time and the middle I just painted a bit on as I couldn't get it down into the wax.

[sjbees]

Dipping sounds like a lot of work for only a few hives. Painting is tedious and it does not last so I second Umbriel's approach. Beeswax is waterproof, even end grain and exposed edge plies shed water during rain if they are protected by wax.

My objective was a finish that never needed attention after being done the first time, so ten years ago I heated odorless mineral spirits in a crockpot and added as much or more beeswax. These days I use turpentine instead of mineral spirits.

The warm mixture brushes on easily, and the spirits help wax penetrate far deeper than warmed wax alone ever could. End grain and exposed ply edges have an incredible capacity to absorb the mixture. There is a waxy feel to the finish which disappears after a few warm days.

The mix can even be brushed on cold because it sets to a soft consistency. The cold mix does not absorb as readily but it does penetrate, very much like polishing wax does on bare timber. The waxy feel is more obvious and it takes longer to be absorbed.

The top covers are re-waxed every few years because they take so much abuse from the sun. No justification other than it seems like a good precaution. So far no delamination of plies and no rot. The hives still shed water in the rain, and any water that pools on the lids is not absorbed, it sits there until it evaporates.