7D Nails and my Frame Nailer

[pokerman11]

Hi Form,

My first post - setting up my first hives this winter, so I'm a newbie.

I got a deal on some unused 10 frame 9 5/8" dogeared hive bodies and I am now assembling. Putting together 14 hive bodies and a few supers as I am setting up 7 hives this year. I'm told to use 7D nails.

7D nails - that's a 100 year old term, you can tell beekeeping has some history to it. Anyway - I know a 7D nail is 2 1/4" nail, but it's impossible for me to find these nails that fit my Pasload frame nailer.

My choices are 2" or 2 3/8" - I already have 2 3/8" ringed galivinized nails, so just going to use them. However - worred about splitting the wood with the longer nail.

Anybody have any experiance they could share?

[Ross]

I shoot mine with 3" finish nails or 2.25" construction staples. Try it.

[glassinfreno]

Nails will work themselves out over time (I'm a carpenter:doh:)
I would use corse drywall screws. they are stable & can be removed easily incase you need to repair or dissasemble. if your worring bout splitting the wood , drill a pilot hole 1/2 the size of the screw diameter

I know its not the "norm" to stray from nails...:eek:
"My opinion" is less time searching for that "golden ticket" & more time working with my girls!! :applause:

just an idea, untill you find the "golden ticket"...LOL

[pokerman11]

I was thinking also that the drywall type screws (coated) would be the best. However, I don't have a screw gun handy.

I'll stick with the nails. The ring nails should hold well enough.

thanks guys.

[Ross]

I glue mine. The nails just clamp it while the glue dries.

[pokerman11]

Hey Ross,

I think you got it correct. I'll dig out the finishing nailer and go with 3" finish nails and some gorrilla glue.

By the way - I was just looking at your website - I like the designs for the tablesaw bottom boards

-tks -

jp

[TodesSchatten]

I both glue and have been using 6d (2") coated sinkers they are the .25" shorter but same dia as the 7d box nail and they have an adhesive coating to prevent them from working out.

[glassinfreno]

zinc coated nails?

[TodesSchatten]

not zinc, vinyl-coated sinker nail

[glassinfreno]

do they come in racks or coils? Havent seen them before,then again wasnt looking for them either... they sound cool !! where can I find them? Sounds like something I could use @ wk. replacing that heavy screwgun & poking screw apron.. sori off topic.. (:)=

[TodesSchatten]

bulk nails
7d box nail - 2 1/4"x.099" smooth shank (not common stock)
6d sinker - 1 7/8x.099 smooth, counter sinking, vinyl adhesive coated (common stock)

nail gun nails (size depends on gun maker)
2 3/8x.113 coated smooth (aka 8d cooler nail) full round head
I found at home despot :rolleyes:

cooler nails are used for general construction and framing. Similar to coated sinker, but with smooth flat head instead of checkered countersunk.

[wfarler]

I had trouble with my nail gun blowing the sides out of the hive walls so went back to a hammer. The bodies were drilled on the flat surfaces but not into the underpiece - maybe that would make a difference. I also couldn't consistently get the gun aligned.

Didn't think the finish nailer had much contribution to strength. Not sure how to get 7d's except from a bee company. I make an annual trip (100 miles) to get bottles and supplies so I pick up a large box - shipping is about as much as the nails themselves.

Maybe I'm fooling myself - I'm not good at hammering a nail straight either.

[pokerman11]

After assembling a few this weekend - agreed a frame nail gun is not the tool to use. It is difficult to line up, blows up the sides, cracks the wood, and sinks them too far. And this is with adjusting and undersize nails.

Most of my boxs are pre-drilled - and the pine is so soft it only takes 2-3hits to fully sink the nail - manually - so that's the easy way to do this.

If your hammer skills are lame and you need to do a bunch - them perhaps use a "Palm Nailer" It fits into your palm and has a air driven impact hammer, (great for hanging joice hooks). They sell for $30.


7d nails are not at the local big box store - but if you have a true hardware store then they will have them (or will order).

Bottom line -just buy as close to the right sized nail and then a good wood glue. Just hammer them in.

[Jeffzhear]

I glue mine. The nails just clamp it while the glue dries.

I agree with Ross, screws are overkill if you use glue.

[roweston]

Hi folks,
I'm new here but your touching on my field of expertise. My $.02 is this:
The vinyl coated sinkers will rust, even after you paint them with 2 coats of the best marine paint out there. I wouldn't use them in any size for hive boxes. I agree with Ross that the exterior glue applied liberaly is your best option. I use 1-1/2 galvanized 1/4" crown staples for assembly and have great success. They don't blow out the ears and you have great control when setting the nose of the stapler on the wood.
Pretty much any nail you use will eventually work it's way back out. Staples tend to stay put. If you need to nail, use galvanized nails. They won't rust and tend to stay where you put them way better than a vinyl coated sinker.
BTW, the vinyl coating on these nails is there to help the nails be driven in with one blow. The vinyl supposedly comes off with the friction of the blow. They were desinged for framing houses and production work. We used to have to take a box home each night and add a stick of parafin to melt into the box for even smoother operation the next day. Like I said, my $.02
Scott

[wfarler]

The temptation is to buy a lot of woodenware to get the discount then assemble as you need them so the storage space is minimal. However, the older the wood gets the drier and more likely to split and crack and the harder it is to nail. This is especially true of frames. Soaking helps but it just seems better to assemble while fresh.