Table Saw

[Eaglerock]

Mine went to saw heaven and I gave it a 21 buzz saw salute.

Sooooo my question is I want to buy a new one. Any ideas for my new one....and a low cost, and quality table saw.

I looked on the net and there was some for 5000 - 10,000.

I am looking for a cheaper one, that's for sure. I looked on ebay as well.

[Tom G. Laury]

Delta unisaw is excellent. Also be sure to look at power feeds. Here on West coast there is one called King EZ feed that is economical. Power feeds increase production and save fingers.

[Barry]

Not another "another table saw thread"!:eek:

http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217133

http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205460

[Eaglerock]

Delta unisaw is excellent. Also be sure to look at power feeds. Here on West coast there is one called King EZ feed that is economical. Power feeds increase production and save fingers.

I think I am getting the evil eye. :(

Thanks Tom. How many HP do you have? Volts?

[Eaglerock]

Not another "another table saw thread"!:eek:

http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217133

http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205460

Thanks Barry, I like the one that was posted, I will look more on those two threads.

[riverrat]

Any ideas for my new one....and a low cost, and quality table saw.
I am looking for a cheaper one, that's for sure. I looked on ebay as well.

always remember a cheap saw is never good nor is a good saw ever cheap.;) I would look for a good used delta or name brand saw that has been cared for.

[Eaglerock]

always remember a cheap saw is never good nor is a good saw ever cheap.;) I would look for a good used delta or name brand saw that has been cared for.

Funny you should say Delta. I typed in Table saws in Yahoo search and it came up.... Some nice saws there. http://www.cpowoodworking.com/table_saws/

I like 36-R31... Not sure which is better, left or right tilt.

[Sundance]

Like the earlier threads go over pretty well, old iron is
a bargain and have quality components for cheap.

I have old (40's/50's) Craftsman (Emerson) that are
really solid. I paid no more than $50 to $75 for them
and added a good quality fence ($150+).

[balhanapi]

I found a good deal on a grizzly on craigslist. I Love it!! it's 10 yrs old but runs great I just had to clean it a little and get a freud blade.:) model 1022Z

[balhanapi]

these I found on craigslist http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tls/896626772.html
http://erie.craigslist.org/tls/869624186.html

[MapMan]

If I was to get a new one, I'd get one with a European-style riving knife, instead of a splitter. If you have a saw with a splitter, chances are the splitter was one of the first things which you removed, as they are a pain to work with. A riving knife is so much safer to use than a splitter.

There are some very nice new saw models out there. A fairly new tool manufacturer start up - Steel City Tool Works - has some innovative products, including a hybrid one with a riving knife and a granite table top for around $1200-1400. Very nice, and really not too pricey - it depends how much woodworking you are doing.

For ultimate safety, check out SawStop (you've probably seen the wiener blade stop demo). You'll have all of your fingers left for many years if you get that saw - piece of mind for worried spouses/families. $3500. Other nice cabinet style saws are Powermatic, Delta and Jet.

If you get a gently-used saw, fine. Sometimes it is difficult to see inaccuracies in a saw until you test it at home with some repetitive cuts. Adjusting the fence to be parallel with the blade is one thing, adjusting the blade skew with the trunnions is a bit more involved. Bring some machinist squares, a combination square and a good straightedge with you to check out the alignment on used machines which you are considering purchasing.

MM

[Tom G. Laury]

Single phase 2hp is adequate or better for most of us. If you can find an older saw with what is called an "arbor motor" it will allow you to space two or more blades for gang ripping or ripping and grooving which is a real advantage. Don't forget the power feed. Once you've had one you'll never use a push stick again.

[MapMan]

Not sure which is better, left or right tilt.

Personally, I am right handed and prefer left tilt. Also, I grew up using left tilt, so perhaps I am more used to left tilt. I just can't get used to right tilt (I have had to use one in the past), and honestly don't know anyone with a right tilted blade.

Advantages of a left-tilt:


Motor on the left means the bevel wheel is on the right, good for right handed users
Blade tilts away from the fence meaning that it is less likely to trap the wood between the fence and the blade.
Uses a regular right-hand thread nut to fasten the blade and the nut is on the right side of the blade, good for right handed users
When cutting a piece with bevels on both sides (trapezoid-shaped pieces) the point of the wood rides along the middle of the fence instead of at the bottom where it might slip under the fence, and then might kick back
The motor is usually inside the cabinet instead of sticking out.

Advantages of a right tilt:


The distance from blade to fence is not changed if you change the blade. On a left tilt, fitting a dado or a thinner blade will change the distance and make your scale read incorrectly (but I always check and adjust vernier anyway).
Use your left hand to control bevel angle, good for left handed users.
Left hand threaded arbor nut means you can change the blade from the back of the saw where the blade is closer and use your right hand.


MM

[Tom G. Laury]

Map man

I have manufactured 10s of thousands of supers and 100s of thousands of frames along with all the other stuff and I haven't the slightest idea what you are talking about. Would you enlighten me?

[MapMan]

Oh, when you do decide, Eaglerock, get one with a generous amount of space (an additional wing and table to the left or right of the saw). Also, you should make yourself an outfeed table - it will increase safety, and is invaluable for large panel work.

MM

[MapMan]

He asked about blade tilt. Left or right tilt. If you have an old Delta, I believe they came with right tilt only for a number of years. Otherwise, now most manufacturers offer a choice in either. If you are only using the blade at 90° (upright), never mind...

MM

[Tom G. Laury]

OK yeah I only ripped straight upright. What is a splitter?

[MapMan]

Tom are you pulling my chain? If you don't know what a splitter is, you probably don't have one installed on your saw. Unless your saw is very old, it was shipped from the manufacturer with one, most are removed from service. It is usually part of a unit with pawls, and a blade cover - usually transparent plastic.

A splitter attachment is a device that has pawls (toothed jaws) to hold the wood down to the surface of the saw, and a splitter is located behind the blade to hold the wood apart after the cut (hence "splitter") so that the wood does not possibly bind the blade, and catch the wood for a possible kickback. A riving knife rides up and down with the blade, while a splitter is stationary.


MM

[Tom G. Laury]

No I'm not yanking sorry! Yes that was the first thing I ripped off the saw now I know what you're talking about. Just got in the way of the power feed.

[MapMan]

Hyvää päivää, Tom. Just read your bio in the other thread. I'm half Finnish.

Yes, splitters are always thrown in a cabinet somewhere. I could have used one for a cut five years back. Bad kickback, almost tore my thumb off my right hand. Thankfully, an excellent neurosurgeon was making the rounds and I was able to get most of my mobility back.

MM

[Tom G. Laury]

Hey! Great!

Man those injuries take a while to calm down, no? My right pinkie is missing one joint from a jointer, badge of honor!

Do you ever go to visit? It's a great place.

[MapMan]

Ei. Not been there, my folks went back there. Much has changed, but they found distant relatives who welcomed them into their homes. I have to make it a point to get there, and also to Italy - loads of cousins there.

MM

[Tom G. Laury]

Ha ha ha what a crack up my wife will love it when I tell her! Make a Finnish friend and you have a friend for life. So do you buy from Lapps bee supply?:D

[MapMan]

Ha ha ha what a crack up my wife will love it when I tell her! Make a Finnish friend and you have a friend for life. So do you buy from Lapps bee supply?:D

I'm thinking of buying from Lapps if I get down that way. It's about a hundred miles from here.

MM

[honeyman46408]

Hey! Great!

Man those injuries take a while to calm down, no? My right pinkie is missing one joint from a jointer, badge of honor!

For thoes who have a "badge of honor" take a look at this little tib bit that Bizzybee sent me some time ago.

http://www.sawstop.com/index.htm

[magnet-man]

That technology has been out for about 3 or 4 years now. The owner of the patent was having a hard time getting someone to license it. They also are trying to get it mandatory safety feature on all new saws. If that happens the cost will drop quite a bit. While a table saw scares me, I have one, a radial arm saw is really dangerous.

It just makes me cringe to watch that Stop Saw video.:pinch:

[Sundance]

That SawStop looks fantastic!!

Here's a beast of a saw for any one in the Illinois
area. If only it were closer!:cry:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Industrial-Circular-Table-Saw-Heavy-Duty_W0QQitemZ300269887076QQihZ020QQcategoryZ57124 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[Bizzybee]

One thing for certain, is that table saws command respect. When they don't get it, they will make you pay dearly! You NEVER take your eye off the ball when working on em :pinch:

Never been cut before, (knock on wood) but my dad did once. Wasn't a pretty site! I took a kick back about a year ago that put me on the floor and scared for my life. NOT a good feeling! :no: It was a cut that couldn't be made with a guard and took all of about 1/2 second of my attention being where it shouldn't be.

[honeyman46408]

That SawStop looks fantastic!!

Here's a beast of a saw for any one in the Illinois
area. If only it were closer!:cry:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Industrial-Circular-Table-Saw-Heavy-Duty_W0QQitemZ300269887076QQihZ020QQcategoryZ57124 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

WOW that would bee a gooden if it wasnt for the 3ph

[Bizzybee]

Motors are cheap enough, swap it out for a single phase. :)

[MapMan]

That technology has been out for about 3 or 4 years now. The owner of the patent was having a hard time getting someone to license it. They also are trying to get it mandatory safety feature on all new saws. If that happens the cost will drop quite a bit. While a table saw scares me, I have one, a radial arm saw is really dangerous.

It just makes me cringe to watch that Stop Saw video.:pinch:


More like eight years, he developed it in 2000. Couldn't get underwriting, but finally got someone to start manufacturing the machine under his strict specifications. He's now applying the technology to chop saws, bandsaws, circular saws, etc. and has prototypes being tested. Tough to apply the feature to old models, as the unit takes up a bit of space. New models, yes.

MM

[Sundance]

WOW that would bee a gooden if it wasnt for the 3ph


Easily converted though......... either a converter or a motor
swap.