Tool Battery Rebuilding

[Sundance]

I am going to try to rebuild some of my tool batteries.

Anyone have any first hand experience with doing
this???

The savings aren't huge but you can bump up the
amp hours as well as insure quality cells.

[NorthALABeeKeep]

How? Got any information on it?

[MapMan]

Never done it, have considered it, my nature is to fix stuff instead of investing in new. Do you have a good (quality and cheap) source of Sub -Cs? Also, are you going to get Sub-Cs with solder tabs?

I have a bunch of old/dying power packs - like to get them running again.

MM

[Sundance]

After digging a lot I found the guy on ebay to be
the best source for Sub C batteries for price and
quality. He has a web site as well but they sell for
more money there than on ebay (go figure).

Rechargeable batteries are only made by 2 companies
in the world. Panasonic and Sanyo. So no matter what
the label says, they are one of those.

I am leaning toward the 3800 mAH instead of 4500 mAH
because they are a better value and will blow stock
batteries out of the water, even my new 3.5 packs.

And yes to tabs. This guy will not combine shipping so
even if he ships them together you pay full load. But
I can't find a better source even with that..

http://cgi.ebay.com/20-Pcs-Matched-Sub-C-3800mAh-NiMH-Batteries-with-Tabs_W0QQitemZ230297543261QQihZ013QQcategoryZ34061 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Not super cheap........... but a 20 pack of matched cells will
rebuilt 2 of my 12V packs ($30 a piece w/S&H).

All you need is a good soldering iron (500W), some rosiin core
solder, and a scuff pad to clean the tops before soldering.

Use the old battery case to hold the batteries in position while
soldering.

[beegee]

There was a guy selling instruction son how to rejuvenate your old tool batteries by zappingthem with a power source using jumpers. He claims it works.

[deknow]

....sounds like my father's friend who was always mentioned when using heavy tools named "four finger harry" (he was imaginary). i assume the person you are talking about has a similar name, but referencing his acid burned face :)

deknow

[Sundance]

There was a guy selling instruction son how to rejuvenate your old tool batteries by zappingthem with a power source using jumpers. He claims it works.


NiCad's can be rehabilitated due to "memory". Not sure
if I'd try that method:no:

I have switched over to NiMH over the years and if I was
rich and famous I'd do lithium ion's. But NiMH is so very
much better than NiCad's

[Bodo]

How are you disposing of your spent power cells?

[MapMan]

I just throw them in the trash, along with the burned-out fluorescent tubes and old, half-full pesticide spray bottles.:p Just kidding, no I don't. :no:

The big box home improvement stores have bins for just that purpose - disposing of used dry cells. I have to pay a buck to dispose of the fluorescent tubes, but it is worth it - mercury is a nasty poison, especially when it ends up in groundwater and my can of tuna. We have a couple days set aside in the spring when you can bring in old paint cans, pesticides, lead batteries, etc. for proper disposal by the county.

MM

[Sundance]

How are you disposing of your spent power cells?

Same as you........... I hope.

No batteries should go in the trash, especially Ni Cad.
Nowadays there are battery disposal stations within
easy reach and there is no excuse for tossing even
alkaline batteries.

[magnet-man]

I have rebuilt batteries for power tools and such. Not to hard unless the batteries are tacked welded together. Then it is best to get batteries with tabs. Check to see if there is a BatteriesPlus where you live. The will rebuild for a nominal fee and their batteries are affordable.

I have rebuilt lithion notebook batteries before and have a few links for batteries.

http://www.all-battery.com/lithiumprimarybatteries.aspx
http://www.batteryjunction.com/dnireba.html
http://www.batteryjunction.com/licyba181417.html

If you want to change your tool over to lithium you need to get the controller board also. That in my opion is too much trouble.

[Sundance]

I am perfectly happy with NiMH batteries and their
performance.

Picked up 4 "dead" battery packs last week on ebay.
One turned out to be a newer on and in great shape!!
I have to order the sub-c cells next week and run
down a decent soldering iron. I only have a pistol
type and a 25W pencil style. I have read a 60W pencil
style is best for batteries???

[xC0000005]

I have a heavy duty pencil tip that with digital heat control (I used to do some SMT soldering before I discovered the "bake in the oven approach") and I've used it to put together many battery packs. Most of mine have scars where I've opened sealed plastic housing but they still work fine. It's a great way to avoid the high price of new battery packs.

[J-Bees]

mercury:

I have a few pounds of it, Was wondering if it was resaleable or not.

anyone know??

JB:}

[Bizzybee]

I'm sure it's still used for something somewhere, but most of the time someone is paying abatement fees for it.

Keep it sealed if you don't know what it's capable of. The term "Mad Hatter" came from it's use in the tanning industry in England way back when. The vapor it releases is as bad as contact with it.

[xC0000005]

Agreed. It is bad stuff. I had to find a home for a whole bunch of mercury once and was lucky to find a university that took it.

[PCM]

Anyone remeber going to the dentist as a kid, he would take a penny rub mercury on it with their fingers, then give you the magic dime they made !

My how times have changed. :no:

PCM

[magnet-man]

I need it. I have been working on building a mercury vacuum pump for some time. I only have a quarter of the amount I need.

Yes, yes I know the hazards.

[Bizzybee]

OK OK, I give up!:) What do you need to pull a vacuum like that for :scratch:

[magnet-man]

OK OK, I give up!:) What do you need to pull a vacuum like that for :scratch:

Well my son and I are going to experiment with making light bulbs, geisler tubes, and early tube diodes.:D

[Bizzybee]

Sheeeeesh Think of all the bee stuff you could build in the same time. :D

I got no room to talk. I just don't know who I'm entertaining more, me or my son, getting into stuff like that. :s :)

[Bizzybee]

I found this little blog out there;

http://mac.fiveforks.com/ted/blog/archive/2007/versapak_rejuvenated.html

Guess if you were brave enough to give this a shot it may be worth thinking about something to enclose the battery(s). I wouldn't think an exploding battery would make for a good day.

The guy writing this obviously was using misguided judgement to be worried about getting shocked instead of an explosion. :s

[Barry]

Use the old battery case to hold the batteries in position while soldering.

Any idea on how to get the case apart?

I have two of these I wouldn't mind repairing.

http://www.atbatt.com/product/6641.asp

Drill is in great shape, but both packs are dead. $50 a piece new.

[Sundance]

Any idea on how to get the case apart?

Not sure Barry on Makita's. My Panasonic's have screw
together cases. Early Panasonic's were "welded" and
are a bear to take apart. A dremel tool does it with
some patience. And JB Weld does an excellent job to
put them back together.

If your's is solvent welded here's a guy that did
his.

http://www.kichline.com/chuck/fixit/makita/default.htm

Here's a source for batteries. For the price of one
battery you can rebuild both your's. And instead
of the stock 2.1AH you'd be at 3.5AH.

http://cgi.ebay.com/20-Sub-C-3500mAh-NiMH-battery-w-Tabs-for-Power-tool_W0QQitemZ350129238247QQihZ022QQcategoryZ1200Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[Barry]

I don't see any welded spots or screws. It's definitely a two piece case and I can pry the two apart ever so slightly, but my luck, I'd pry too hard and crack it. Usually there is a certain location where an internal tab holds the two together, but if you don't know where that is . . .

I can pull one side apart 1/4" but the other side doesn't budge. It's like a hinge.

[Sundance]

No hidden screws under labels?

My guess is it's solvent welded in the areas that aren't
coming apart. This is where you cut the case and
JB Weld later.

It may not be pretty when you're done, but FrankenBattery
will dazzle your friends and family.

You got nothing to lose as the battery is junk.

[wayacoyote]

Ok, I'm in.
I have a Sears Cordless 9.6v battery. I don't know the Amps. I'm thinking of given them the shock treatment first. If that doesn't work, maybe I'll rebuild them. How has these been working for you guys?

[Sundance]

If your case unscrews then building a new pack
is a snap. You need 8 sub C cells.

Addition:

I have heard lately NOT to upgrade to NiMH unless your
charger is compatible with NiMH. Makes good sense.

[wayacoyote]

Thanks, Sundance. i was going to ask if the impliment cared what kind of battery (NiCd or NiMH) it was given to run on. I opened on easily enough today. It looks straight forward. The original batteries where tack-welded rather than soldered. I don't suppose it matters so long as the connection is good. I don't know anything about soldering, though. Will I need a specific solder? Will the heat damage the bat? Do I heat the battery, the wire or the solder (in copper, I heat the connector, then sweat the solder into the joint)?

[Sundance]

Waya.......... buy the batteries with the tabs already
on. Then you solder them together in the original config.

I have heard lately NOT to upgrade to NiMH unless your
charger is compatible with NiMH. Makes good sense.

Here's a set of some pretty good instructions.

Building Battery Packs (https://www.batteryspace.com/prod-specs/MilwaukeeBattery.pdf)

Basically.

*Soldering Iron must be powerful enough

*Pencil style irons are better than gun.

*Use plenty of flux

*Scuff up battery top

*Don't overheat battery top

*Use plenty of flux

*Tack the batteries together using a hot melt glue
gun. The battery bodies that is, not the ends.

*Use battery case as a "jig" while soldering.

*Use plenty of flux.

*Replace all the cells, don't be tempted to save
the "good" ones.

*Use cells of at least 2400 mAH,

[Barry]

Bruce -

Did you ever follow through with your rebuild? I have four packs that are almost dead and they want $100 a piece to replace. These I can get apart with screws. Each has 10 c batteries. Any update on where to buy the batteries

[Scrapfe]

Anyone remeber going to the dentist as a kid, he would take a penny rub mercury on it with their fingers, then give you the magic dime they made! My how times have changed...

The debtist still uses mercury/silver fillings in your teeth. The more things change the more things remain the same.

Silver is still a deadly heavy metal, today often used on doors and door knobs in hospitals to kill germs.

[BeeCurious]

snip

I have four packs that are almost dead and they want $100 a piece to replace. These I can get apart with screws. Each has 10 c batteries. Any update on where to buy the batteries

If you have a "Batteries Plus" store near you, check on prices.

http://www.batteriesplus.com/

[Barry]

Great suggestion! I found a BatteriesPlus not too far away and I can't rebuild them for what they charge. $34 per battery pack (labor included), and Home Depot wants $99 per pack. Looks like I'll be giving them a lot more business. I have a total of 10 packs that need batteries.

I guess Sundance is MIA. He ties the knot and disappears. :cry:

[JeffPops]

Hey guys I found these great battery rebuild kits that come with everything you need to rebuild your rechargeables. They come on a lot of different sizes and don't require any heat or soldering. They kits are called battrx. Ill
definitely be using them again! http://yhst-129667042621427.stores.yahoo.net/full-size.html

JeffPops