b) First equipment & supplies to obtain

[Barry]

Focus: Covers all the basic equipment needed to begin. Type, size, cost, etc.

[Pete0]

I have this information posted on our club website (http://colonialbeekeepers.com) but I'll see if I can copy it here as well. The prices are from 2006 so they would need to be re-researched.

What equipment is needed to start beekeeping?

Here is a list of items with suppliers that I would presently recommend. Remember, ask 7 beekeepers a question and get 7 different answers. These choices are my opinion only. Researching these items between different suppliers may reduce costs.

There are some assumptions that I’ll be making while compiling this list:

I am going to list products making the assumption that two packages are going to be started. It is a recommended practice to start with two so that comparisons will indicate to the new beekeeper if problems are present.

I am going to assume that the new beekeeper has elected to go with all medium supers for building the hive so all equipment is interchangeable.

I am going to assume that the new beekeeper wants to practice Integrated Pest Management (IPM) with the new colonies.

OK, let’s get ready to hive some bees:

1. An Instruction Manual - you'll want to have a reference manual and this one is basic and has much good information.
Dadant - M00001 FIRST LESSONS IN BEEKEEPING $4.95


2. Telescoping covers and inner covers - the roof and ceiling of the hive.
Dadant - B11101 COVER TELESCOPING METAL W/INNER COVER C/1 $20.75 X 2 = $41.50


3. Screened Bottom Board (IPM) - the floor of the hive.
Dadant - B92901 VARROA SCREENED BOTTOM BOARD EACH $12.50 x 2 = $25.00


4. Entrance Reducer - reduces the size of the front door until the bees are established and able to defend their colony with a full size entrance.
Dadant - B93101 Wood Entrance Reducer $0.85 x 2 = $1.90



5. Medium Supers (5 each) - the walls of the hive. (These can be bought in two separate buys to reduce initial costs and shipping as the colony will take time to use all ten of these supers.)
Dadant - B31205 SUPER 6 5/8 EMPTY C/5 $47.50 x 2 = $95.00


6. Medium Frames (50 each) - these are like rooms within the hive. They will hold the comb. 10 frames are required for each super. (These also can be bought in two separate buys as mentioned above to reduce initial costs and shipping as the colony will take time to use all this woodenware.)
Dadant - B76150 FRAMES 6 1/4 WTB GBB C/50 $32.50 x 2 = $65.00



7. Small Cell Foundation (IPM) - This provides the template for the bees to build comb. One sheet per frame is normally used. (These also can be bought in two separate buys as mentioned above to reduce initial costs and shipping as the colony will take time to use all this foundation.)
Dadant - F353503SC 4.9mm Small Cell LongHook 5 5/8 Wired 50sheet Foundation $35.50 x 2 = $71.00


8. Feeder - it will be necessary to feed sugar water to a new colony to assist it in establishing itself. There are many feeder styles but for starting out I’d suggest this type and unlike the directions suggested, I’d set the feeder on top of the inner cover and use the ventilated screen as a cover for the feeder. I’d also use some screen to make the modification illustrated in picture "B".
Brushy Mountain - Hive Top Feeder (Cat # 688) $16.95 x 2 = $33.90
A.
Note wire screen over slot in picture "B". Modification keeps bees out of reservoir and reduces number of drowned bees. Floats are not used if the screen modification is made.

Brushy Mountain - 10-Frame Ventilated Inner Cover & Moving screen (Cat # 373) $7.95 x 2 = $15.90



9. Smoker - it is a good practice to use smoke when you inspect your bees. It calms and disorientates them so they are easier to work. You can buy fuel but grass clipping, pine straw and other items work well and are free.
Better Bee - Economy Smoker (SMOKEECON1) $23.95


10. Hive Tool - will not be necessary in the beginning but as the bees establish the hive and propolize, the tool assists in separating the components.
Better Bee - 10" Maxant Hook-End Hive Tool (HT3) $12.50


11. Protective Clothing - a veil is the minimum protection required (you don’t want to get stung in the eye!) regardless of what you’ve seen or heard. I like this jacket veil combination and suggest some bib type overalls to wear along with it. For more protection a coverall is the way to go!
Better Bee - Zippered Jacket Pullover (x-Large - JPO4) $47.95


Dadant - Hat-Veil Combo with Cotton/Poly Suit (V01170) $49.95







12. Gloves - many suggest starting without gloves or transition to going without gloves but regardless you’ll want a pair to have in your kit. I suggest the non-ventilated type as there is not much ventilation and you can get stung through the screen.
Better Bee - Deluxe Non-Ventilated Leather Gloves (Large - VGL2) $11.95


13. Additional Nice To Have Items:
Brushy Mountain - Frame Perch (Cat # 592) $19.95


Brushy Mountain - Frame Grip (Cat # 764) $12.95


SUMMARY

$4.95 Manual
$41.50 Inner & Telescoping Covers
$25.00 Screened Bottom Boards
$1.90 Entrance Reducers
$95.00 Medium Supers
$65.00 Medium Frames
$71.00 Small Cell Foundation
$33.90 Hive Top Feeders
$15.90 Ventilated Covers
$23.95 Smoker
$12.50 Hive Tool
$47.95 Jacket & Veil Combo
$11.95 Gloves
$450.50 TOTAL less items #13
$19.95 Frame Perch
$12.95 Frame Grip
$483.40 TOTAL for all items
Shipping costs are not included.

[tedstruk]

Don't use typar weed blocker. The bees try to eat it and can't. It is horrible to see. You can use door screen, and a good set of coveralls, if you don't have any other protective gear. "dickies" is what I use. I made my veil with typar weed blocker wrapped over a lamp shade and secured with wire and duct tape. I wrapped a door screen around it and wired it to the chinaman hat. You should get some good gloves. Large thick pig skin, or sleeved rubber bee keeping gloves. My gloves have taken over 25 stings and I have yet to get stung through them.

[alpha6]

Don't waste money on a feeder. Use an old jar and put some holes in the top and place it over the inner cover hole to feed. It works great, there is no robbing and it is free.

Also you don't need gloves to handle your hive. The only time I use gloves is when harvesting alot of hives...only because they get really ticked and am handling lots of supers and throwing them onto the flatbed.

Good idea on the jacket with hood. Overalls just are not needed...of course you may not want to wear your boxers with it while checking the hive. ;)

Pretty much everything else listed is right on. Also remember that shipping is going to be a good amount with the woodware, so if you are looking to save and are in any way handy with a saw and nailgun or just a hammer you can order one hive and then use it as a go by to build the rest.

Lastly, I would recommend that you build a nuc or two as soon as you can to have on hand. You are going to need it to split, pick up a swarm, pick up a nuc because you want more, etc, etc. I use mine constantly.

[Michael Bush]

Important decisions on equipment:

One of the most important things to do is sort out the important decisions from the less important decisions.

I would like to point out that there are many things in beekeeping you can easily change as you go along. There is no point stressing out over these things. There are other things in beekeeping that are an investment and are difficult to change later.

Easy Things to Change in Beekeeping:

You can always go to a top entrance. You only have to block the bottom one (with a 3/4" by 3/4" by 14 3/4" entrance block on a ten frame standard bottom board) and propping up the top. It's not like everything you have is outdated if you decide that you want a top entrance.

You can always choose to put in or leave out a queen excluder. Odds are, sooner or later, you'll need one for something. They are handy for the bottom of an uncapping tank. Or as an includer when hiving a swarm etc. It's not that big of an investment to have one (or not). Nor is it that big of a problem to buy one later if you don't have one.

You can change the race of bees VERY easily. You'll probably requeen once in a while even if you AREN'T trying to change races, and all you have to do is buy a queen of whatever race you want and requeen. So it's not that critical what breed you pick. I doubt you'll be disappointed with an Italian or a Carni or a Caucasian. And if you decide you want something else, it's not hard to change.

Difficult Things to Change in Beekeeping:

The bigger issues are things that are an investment you have to live with or you have to go to a lot of trouble to modify or undo.

If you think you want small cell (or natural sized cell) you're one step ahead to use it from the start. Otherwise you'll have to either gradually phase out all the large cell comb or do a shakedown and do it all at once. If you invested money in plastic foundation, this is disappointing (I have hundreds of sheets in my basement of large cell foundation I'll never use). But at least you won't have to cut down all your equipment.

If you buy a "typical" starter kit you'll get ten frame deeps for brood and shallows for honey. The ten frame deeps full of honey weigh 90 pounds. Some will argue that when they have brood in them they weigh less than that. That's true. But sooner or later you'll have one full of honey and you may not be able to lift it. If you go with all mediums you'll have to be able to lift 60 pound supers full of honey. If you go with eight frame mediums you'll only have to lift 48 pounds boxes. I started off with the deep/shallow arrangement and had to cut down every box and frame to mediums. Then I cut all the ten frame boxes down to eight frames. It sure would have been easier to just buy eight frame mediums from the start. Interchangeability is also a wonderful thing. It's also nice that an eight frame medium is the same size as a five frame deep. They make nice nuc boxes.

Screened bottom boards are easy to just buy. It's harder to convert the old ones.

If you buy a lot of ANYTHING, you may decide you hate it later. Make changes slowly. Test things before you invest a lot in them. Just because one person likes it, doesn't mean you will like it.

[standman]

Bee brush was not part of my starter set, but I quickly found that I needed one. Read somewhere that oldtimers used a goose feather, so I tried a wild turkey feather. Tail feather was not stiff enough, but wing feather worked great! Harvested a super last week with it, and no angry bees! Not bad for my first year.:D

[BeeCurious]

I started two hives this year after reading many books and "studying" the forums. My first suggestion is to request printed catalogs from all of the major suppliers. I happened to have received a "safety bonus" from my company so when it came to ordering beekeeping stuff it was a little like a "newbie gone wild".

I "cherry picked" my equipment, and placed orders with all of the following companies: W.T. Kelley, Brushy Mt., Mannlake, Betterbee, Miller Bee Supply, Rossman Apiaries and Dadant. Oh! I forgot about the case of "Honey Super Cell (http://www.honeysupercell.com/)".

Shipping costs may effect some of your choices, but I recommend that you do a lot of reading (studying) and then buy exactly what you want. There will always be someone opposed to certain types of equipment or techniques so do your research and select your supplies.

Some of my purchases:





Dadant (https://www.dadant.com/catalog/index.php)

Large Smoker (https://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=46)$39.25
Small Cell Wax Foundation (https://www.dadant.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?search_in_description=1&keywords=4.9&sort=2a&page=1)(Consider Mann Lake's plastic frames/foundation PF-120's (http://mannlakeltd.com/catalog/proddetails.asp?pg=page10.html))
WAX TUBE FASTENER (https://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=231)
METAL ENTRANCE REDUCER (https://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=213)
Mann Lake Ltd. (http://mannlakeltd.com/index.html)

Economy Hooded Suits & Jackets (http://mannlakeltd.com/catalog/page91.html) ( I'm very satisfied with my jacket and the price.)
Plastic Frames/foundation (http://mannlakeltd.com/catalog/proddetails.asp?pg=page10.html)( Decide if you want to start with "Small Cell Beekeeping")
W.T. Kelley (http://go.netgrab.com/secure/kelleystore/asp/home.asp)

Frames (http://go.netgrab.com/secure/kelleystore/asp/prodtype.asp?prodtype=38)
Wax foundation (http://go.netgrab.com/secure/kelleystore/asp/prodtype.asp?prodtype=31)
Brushy Mountain (http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/)

Miscellaneous feeders, hardware, etc. 8-Frame inner covers (http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/prodinfo.asp?number=254IC)
Note: The inner cover sold by Brushy Mt. is made from 3/8" plywood and is "... the strongest inner cover on the market today. A hole is cut in the inner cover to enable you to use a plastic bee escape. Also we cut a dado in the top rim for better ventilation and as an upper entrance/escape for the bees." I will but these the next time...

Some inner covers are made with luan and do not have the notched out rim. BetterBee and Mann Lake use 3/4" wood for their boxes so I guess that a Brushy Mt. inner cover would be 1/4" smaller in length and width which I don't think would present a problem when used between the larger boxes and outer covers.




Betterbee (http://www.betterbee.com/departments.asp?dept=73)

8-Frame Equipment (http://www.betterbee.com/departments2.asp?dept=1204&bot=83) and other items.


Miller Bee Supply (http://millerbeesupply.com/index.htm)

Medium Nuc Bodies (http://millerbeesupply.com/Page17.htm) and other items.
Rossman Apiaries (http://www.gabees.com/store/)

Complete 5-Frame medium nucs (http://www.gabees.com/store/index.php?cPath=40&osCsid=f6ae741655565550099609172b12603d) and other items
SuperCell (http://www.honeysupercell.com/)

Honey Super Cell 4.9mm plastic frame/foundation (http://www.honeysupercell.com/) (This was an extravagance, but I ended up "needing them".)
Books can get expensive so use libraries, and if you don't mind used books try Alibris (http://www.alibris.com/) or Amazon used books.

[Ravenseye]

Plan on WANTING more equipment than you'll NEED. That's not to say that you won't use it, it's just that some things become useful and some things become gadgets. I typically wish I had more available woodenware (ready to go) than what I have. I now build hive stands but can easily use nothing...or 4x4's or cinder blocks if I have to. So, not having a hive body is more critical than what to put it on. I have all kinds of pullovers, bee jackets, veils, hats, gloves, etc. But, I tend to only use one or two of what I bought. The rest is real handy when visitors want to satisfy their curiosity and have me show them the hives close up. Don't be afraid to try new things but don't think that you can't keep bees without them.

[tecumseh]

first things first..

1) good reference material... I just reviewed beekeeping for dummies and that publication looked to be very worthwile... to this list I would add my old favorite abc-xyz.

2) good protective gear (hat, veil, coveralls and gloves).

3) buy more frames (optimally all of one size) than you will need.... this will save on shipping down the road.

I will list a few things from pete-o's list that I think are accessories and not essential...

1) Inner & Telescoping Covers
tecumseh> likely only useful if you live above the mason dixon line. for what it is expensive, cumberson and likely an excellent weekend resort for the small hive beetle.

2)Entrance Reducers
tecumseh>make one from an old frame (top bar with broken ears...idea acquired from mr jeffrey todd).

3)Hive Top Feeders
tecumseh> a mason jar with a few holes punched in the top works just fine.

4)Ventilated Covers
$23.95 tecumseh>unless you plan to move the hive this item is unnecessary. if you do plan to move the hive a bit of screen and a good stapler will accomplish the same task.

the following two items may or may not be useful, but are likely much more useful to the novice than by anyone who has had past experience with the girls.

Frame Perch
Frame Grip

I even have the last item which I use only when applying sucromid... works nicely for me in that context.

[papa bear]

all of these are very good!

have to agree with tecumseh. one of the best things is reference material.
read everything that you can get your hands on. remember there are more ways to keep bees than there are bee keepers. experience is one of the only ways to learn

the main thing i would tell anyone starting anything is don't spend yourself to death. you don't need a full out bee suit right off the bat. you can use long sleeve shirt and pants. you should have a veil , but my great grand father used a mosquito netting under his hat all his life.

decide what it is you want and start there. you might decide later to go another way, Micheal Bush was right, some changes can be made immediately and some takes several seasons to change

very important! have fun don't take things too seriously. you'll impress some people and some wll think you are nuts

[tecumseh]

papa bear writes:
but my great grand father used a mosquito netting

tecumseh replies: well that's how I started out although a good veil and gloves are certainly thing I would place on the top of 'my' list.

if 'over time' you got to raising greater number of bees I would then suggest a full suit is almost essential since at some point in times the girls (and by extension the beekeeper) will be having a bad hair day.

[ekrouse]

Here are the best sources for things that I have found over time and have posted in the past.

1) Hive bodies: Dadant. They have beautiful, knot free wood and the machining is great. I've bought quite a few supers from Better Bee, but won't do it ever again. They claim the 7/8" thick wood they use makes them superior, but in reality they have to use thicker wood because it is full of knots, crack, split, missing box joint fingers, rot holes, etc. In their defense they have quickly sent out replacement pieces without cost, but unfortunately about 50% of what they send is just as bad. Also, the 7/8" thick wood means 1/4" less space inside making it difficult to fit 10 frames once they get a little propolis on them.

2) Walter T. Kelley Co. for frames and outer covers. I have used Kelley's plastic outer covers for over 30 years and they just last forever. No ants under flashing. No painting. etc. http://go.netgrab.com/secure/kelleystore/asp/product.asp?product=168 However, use wooden inner covers and wooden screened bottom boards.

3) Maxant for hive tools with "J" hook end.

4) Dadant for extracters. Thickest stainless around and all stainless steel interior. (Maxant uses a cast aluminum reel bottom.

-ekrouse

[NewBee2007]

hi! I would agree with almost everything that's been noted, but I do have a few comments about the following 2 items:

[QUOTE=tecumseh;349118]first things first..

buy more frames (optimally all of one size) than you will need.... this will save on shipping down the road.
I will list a few things from pete-o's list that I think are accessories and not essential...

and
Inner & Telescoping Covers
tecumseh> likely only useful if you live above the mason dixon line. for what it is expensive, cumberson and likely an excellent weekend resort for the small hive beetle.

I originally bought the one piece plastic frames and they are handy, but I'm not sure how keen the bees are about them. In hindsight, I wish I had purchased at least some wooden frames and that would have given me the option for using either the plastic inserts or the historical standard wire sheets.

Also, up here in the NorthEast you really want to have an inner cover and the telescoping cover.

[Eaglerock]

Here are the best sources for things that I have found over time and have posted in the past.

-ekrouse

Have you ever tried Millers?

[tedstruk]

The first thing I found, was that I needed an uncapping knife or scraper. I made a mess of my first frames, and it will take time to learn.

How much honey will you get? Well a single... 1/2 full brood frame... gave me 5 1/2 little bears! :no:

[Barry]

I'm amazed after watching a bunch of YouTube videos of harvesting honey, who many hobbyists go to the expenses of uncapping knives (the electric or steam ones) or planes! It takes them twice as long to get the cappings off as it takes me with a $5 10" serrated knife from Target. Low tec is better in this area.

[Romahawk]

And don't forget the common table fork for scratching those low spots in the cappings. They work great for that. :D

[NasalSponge]

OK...some may think this is an accessory however as one (of many) who has done it both ways I now consider this a necessity...

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k312/NasalSponge/IMG_0079.jpg

It is a crown molding stapler and you can pick one up at Home Depot for $109...worth every penny:D

[iddee]

and you can pick one up at Harbor Freight for 19.95.

[NasalSponge]

Yea, sorry...I have been a mechanic for 30 years and never purchase the lease expensive tool....not worth the savings to me. But good point...:)

[cow pollinater]

You have all missed one make or break item that has been an absolute must have in my beekeeping hobby/career... An understanding spouse.
I say get enough equipment and protective gear to get everyone involved because you won't last long if the boss ain't on board.;)

[iddee]

"Honey, should I buy bees or beer?"

Gets you another hive every time. :shhhh:

[oldenglish]

I drove down and got the following from Ruhl's. I plan on running two hives in my first yr.

4 hive bodies (unassembled)
4 westerns (unassembled, might not need em all but you never know)
2 screened bottom boards ( entrance reducer included)
2 Queen excluders
2 inner covers
2 telescoping covers
2 hive top feeders, (plastic double sided with wire mesh in the center)
20 deep frames
20 med frames, and yes we figured we counted wrong once we got home.
40 pierco plastic deep foundation
40 pierco plastic med foundation
1 smoker with heat shield
1 pair gloves
1 bee jacket with veil
1 hat with veil (for my kid or visitors)
1 honey B healthy

the total was $625 and about $35 for gas.
The stuff I did not get, hive tool, brush, more gloves and the missing frames are all going on my christmas list.

[NasalSponge]

My beloved is the one encourging me to get back into it.....most likely to get me off the PC and out into the yard:) So the piles of equipment in the garage and all the $$ aren't an issue!:D I have also been putting a bug in her ear about doing it with me...

[magnet-man]

I would go with all deep supers instead of supers and hive bodies. Going with all deeps allows you to swap equipment around much easier. Supers are also a lot easier to pickup.

Purchase from one place because it will keep shipping down. Dadant is a good place to purchase because they have lots of regional location. To save freight cost call the nearest location to place your order instead of ordering from the web site.

Get an extractor and uncapping knife now. Get the plastic one from Dadant because it is a good value for the money. It won't break the bank like a stainless steel one. It will easily last until you outgrow it.

qty Unit Price Extended price
Screened bottom board 2 $39.95 $79.90
https://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=847

Commercial cover 2 $7.95 $15.90
https://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=186

Queen excluder 2 $11.35 $22.70
https://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=189

Deep supers 8 $9.30 $74.40
https://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23_40&products_id=99

Frames for above supers (case) 1 $67.50 $67.50
https://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23_40&products_id=99

Plastic foundation 80 $0.76 $60.80
https://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23_41&products_id=118

Feeder 2 $17.95 $35.90
http://www.mannlakeltd.com/productdetails.asp?ProdID=FD-110

Hive tool 2 $3.75 $7.50
https://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_29&products_id=737

Stainless steel smoker 1 $35.95 $35.95
https://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=44

Smoker fuel 5 $2.89 $14.45
https://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=48

Frame grip 1 $14.65 $14.65
https://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_29&products_id=58

Bee brush 1 $3.95 $3.95
https://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=57

Bee brush 1 $3.95 $3.95
https://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=57

Gloves 1 $9.75 $9.75
https://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=34_65&products_id=571

Economy suit 1 $63.75 $63.75
https://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=672

Extractor 1 $115.95 $115.95
https://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=35_72&products_id=355

Uncapping knife 1 $93.45 $93.45
https://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=35_70&products_id=462

Total $720.45

If you don't want to sweat or get stung, get an Ultra Breeze beekeeping suit from me.:D

[kopeck]

If you are given old equipment to use make sure you get someone who knows what they're doing to give it a good sound inspection.

My experience was pretty much opposite that of what you think of when one gives an example in this situation. I inherited a bunch on gear from my Grandfather that ranged from older to really old. My neighbor dropped by when I was going through it all and told me I needed to burn everything because it had AFB! I guess he lost some hives a bunch of years ago and was sure it was AFB that he picked up from my grandfather's colonies. Well after seeing half of my wooden ware go up in smoke (mostly frames) the bee inspector offered to check out what was left. No signs what so ever of AFB and the frames he looked are where the ones that were last used (IE the colonies in question by my neighbor). Bummer...

The inspector remembered looking at my neighbor's colonies after they died. He couldn't say with 100% certainty but he was pretty sure it was mites.

No sense in starting out with a problem, let some one with a trained eye look your equipment over first!

I still scorch the inside of the boxes. It doesn't hurt to play it safe.

[Bobb]

Hi, I'm new to the forum and new to beekeeping.
Has anyone tried this hive top feeder when starting a new package of bees? https://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=761

Looking for your opinions.
Thanks, Bobb

[magnet-man]

Bobb,

I usually like to purchase from Dadant because there is a branch not to far from me. That said i still purchase the feeder from Mann-Lake. There is a price difference though.
http://www.mannlakeltd.com/ProductDetail.asp?idproduct=486&idCategory=

[Bobb]

Magnet-Man,
Thanks for your response. I was wondering how well this feeder would work compaired to just placing a jar over the inner cover hole on a new hive.
Looks like it would be pretty good as the bees can't drown and it doesn't have to be completely level, bees can feed from both ends and it holds a lot of liquid.
What do you think?
Bobb

[Bobb]

Might be a stupid question, but I guess what I'm wondering is if the new package of bees will feed from this type of feeder.
Thanks,
Bobb

[bigbore]

they will likely be a little slow at first, but as their numbers grow, they will quickly get the hang of it. the big advantage of it is the ability to add a volume and walk away. the disadvantage of it is, if they aren't strong enough to drink it fast, the sugar will grow fungus and they won't touch it.
if you are starting a new package, I would just use a jar you can seal. a quart will last a package for a week or so, and that is about as long as it will last here before spoiling. after about a month, they should be strong enough to switch to that feeder, and make feeding much easier for you.

[Bobb]

Bigbore,
Thank a lot. I'll start them with the jar. I can't get my bees shipped until mid May. Most shippers say they are backed up until then, but here in Durango it still should give me plenty of time to get them established before the cold of winter.
Thanks again,
Bobb

[chillard willard]

Focus: Covers all the basic equipment needed to begin. Type, size, cost, etc.

Beesuit, hive tool, gloves, and a smoker would be the first on the list. It's good to be able to keep bees in comfort and reducing sting, unless bee venom therapy is your thing.

It would be best to start 3 hives. For this you'll need paint, hammer and nails, 3 bottom boards, 6 standard supers w/frames and foundation, 3 inner covers, 3 lids and 3 feeders of your choice (miller feeder would suit the hobbeist best I believe), sugar as needed, and your nucs or packages on order. The hives will probably be fine the first year with this.

The second year you'll need 3 queen excluders, 2 or 3 supers w/frames and foundation for each hive, bee brush, a 2 or 4 frame extractor, uncapping device, strainer, and pails.

Other purchases would be meds, pollen substitute or suppliment, and if bees wax foundation is used, you'll need eyelets, wire, penny nails, and a wire embedder w/embedding board.

[danameric]

I would say sign up for the catalogues and look online. Look at what the people above have suggested. Keep a list somewhere near by for all the times you look at the catalogues or beesource and get an idea. Then find the closest bee supplier to you and drive down. Should you want to wait for december. Brushy mountain usually does free shipping in that month, otherwise its more worth it to go to the nearest place. You will save money in shipping and will get to have a close look at what you are buying.

[GoodShepherd_UMC]

"Honey, should I buy bees or beer?"

Gets you another hive every time. :shhhh:

If you are a home-brewer and wine-maker, just fire off a batch of Mead...
One sip of the golden ambrosia and your spouse will be hooked!
The Ancient Greeks didn’t call it "Nectar of the Gods" for nothing.

[John Gesner]

When I teach this segment at our beginning beekeepers school, the first part I like to talk about is the beekeeper's equipment.

The first thing that every beekeeper needs is a decent veil. You don't have to buy an expensive jacket or suit with a built in or zip on veil. But you need a reliable veil to take with you when you visit someone's yard or work your own bees. No matter what anyone says, do not work your bees without it. As you become more knowledgeable and experienced, you can make your own decisions on whether or not you need it. But to start with, you need it. Ballpark cost $25.00.

Second thing you'll need is a smoker. I prefer the bigger ones, since they seem to light easier and stay lit better. Ballpark cost $40.00

Fuel for your smoker can be just about anything that will burn that doesn't give off toxic fumes, but I like to buy the big bale of cedar pet bedding from the local big box store. It burns nicely, smells good and is coveniently packaged. $4.99 for the big bag. It should last you more than a year.

Third thing you have to have is a hive tool. Bees stick everything in a hive together with propolis. You'll need a hive tool. Buy one from a bee supply company for $7. Buy two if you get a good price.

After that, you really don't need any specialized equipment. Protective clothing can be bought at the local thrift store in the form of used/second-hand dockers and dress shirts, and you don't want to wear anything nice. Long pants, long sleeved shirts, yellow rubber dish gloves from the dollar store if you feel you need them. I suggest people wear work shoes. Garden boots. Something to protect your feet from falling hive bodies. You know, just in case you under estimate the weight of a hive body when you go to lift it... :rolleyes:

The thing about protective clothing is this. 99% of us are afraid of bees at the start. If wearing all the gear will make you more at ease, then by all means, go for it. This is going to be your hobby. You need to enjoy it.

[onehenry66]

If you do decide on a full suit I suggest one size larger than your shirt size,don't make the same mistake i did.And now I can barely bend down to set down or pickup a hive or frames. Man forbid I ever drop my hive tool. I like that technique best one i've heard in a while.The Buy Beer or Beehives Honey.

[Chick]

I wear a 42 shirt, but bought my suit in a 46, and it is perfect!

[bigbearomaha]

Boxes are really pretty easy to build, frames not really difficult either. Those are both great things to work on over the winter. Depending on your local lumber yard, you can buy white pine boards ( I only build mediums ) 1x8x8 can run between 5 to 7.50 per board. 1 board will build a whole box. when you consider the cost of buying unassembled or otherwise plus shipping, you can likely save up to 75% off of buying these items.

after building my own boxes and frames, I tend to buy outer lids ( I don't succeed at metal working) queen excluder and screened bottom.

I also recommend a hat/veil, especially if you have longer hair. Bees WILL get caught in your hair and they don't like it. trust me on this.

If you ave the money to buy all your equipment, it must be nice. But, I think you will begin to appreciate the hives more and get a better understanding of your hives if you make as many of these things as you can on your own. Plus, you know exactly whats in your equipment and you might even save some $

Big Bear

[pbuhler]

Great thread. Validated some of my decisions and explained some of my mistakes. Thanks to everyone who shared and explained their ideas.
I was lucky enough to be given some clean equipment which kept costs down, but I had some of the same concerns expressed - an experienced keeper looked over my stuff and told me what to keep and what to sterilize, and what wasn't worth bothering with;burn it.
Paul

[laurelmtnlover]

I started my two top bar hives for $242.00. A jacket with veil from Simpsons.
at www.simpsonsbeesupply.com.. The owner is a quadraplegic and his wife fills and ships the orders... timely and very nice people.
I did not buy a smoker and have never used one. No chemicals or antibiotics and the bees are very healthy. I use an old serrated bread knife as a tool and did buy a brush from Simpsons. Two hives and complete equipment for summmer= < $300.00. (www.customwoodkits.com) For those of you that are handy, they are easy to build and you could start much cheaper than that, using recycled wood.
I have been having a blast keeping these bees and anticipate my first honey next week, using the crush and strain method.
Top bar hives are lest costly, and less work, fun and suits my lifestyle. I did do this with no local mentor and no previous beekeeping experience. Joey at Custom Woodkits in Ga has mentored me via phone and internet, and now I am finding more people raising bees locally with the top bar hive. Its so easy its beautiful!!!

[onehenry66]

My brother inLaw is a tin bender/HVAC. boss so I get my tin cheap as it is scrapp so I get it for scrapp price.built my first outer cover last week. Turned out ok for a first timer I think, of course I built it wouldn't want to say anything bad about myself y'know. Oh got my suit from dadant very nice combo like i said before tight though, should have ordered a size bigger than i wear.Thats ok wouldn't hurt me to loose a few pounds.

[A. S. Templeton]

For Warré vTBH beekeeping, download and read Abbé Warré's Beekeeping for All (L'Apiculture pour tous - 12ème édition si vous parlez français).

Get kitted up:
--------------
3-4 four-box Warré hives w/ bases, boxes, spare top bars & top cloths, quilt-boxes, roofs
bee suit or veil, rubber boots, bee gloves
smoker, burlap fuel & lighters
2x hive tools
2' Length of piano wire or tempered SS wire, on handles, for severing the odd bridge comb between boxes
10" carving knife for cutting comb attachments
small pen knife for comb cutting
soft closed-cell foam gardener's pad for kneeling
spearmint/peppermint breath mints or chewing gum to mask breath & confuse hive defenders

and optionally/later:
---------------------
duct tape
twine
honey press w/ fruit pressing bags
coarse and fine strainers
5-gallon buckets w/ honey gates
spray bottle filled with 1:1 white sugar syrup

Obtain package bees from local beekeeping club, learn the most common installation techniques.

[larrythebeek]

I've found the ABC and XYZ of Beekeeping book for a wide variety of prices from $5 to $45 depending on the publication date... Is there a big difference between the 1960 or so version vs the 2007 version?

I'd like to add this to my bee 'library' but would hate to get something with outdated information.

Larry

[larrythebeek]

After doing a bit of searching, I found the ABC XYZ of Beekeeping book is no longer copyrited... In fact, the Smithsonian scanned and uploaded the entire book here, downloadable for free. The book is 598 pages long and is the 1910 version:
http://www.archive.org/details/abcxyzofbeecultu00root

You can get a PDF or text of the book, read it online, or download it to your Kindle.

Larry

----------snip------------------------

The ABC and XYZ of bee culture; a cyclopedia of everything pertaining to the care of the honey-bee; bees, hives, honey, implements, honey-plants, etc. .. (1910)


Author: Root, A. I. (Amos Ives), 1839-1923; Root, E. R. (Ernest Rob), 1862-1953
Subject: Bees
Publisher: Medina, Ohio, The A.I. Root Company
Possible copyright status: NOT_IN_COPYRIGHT
Language: English
Call number: 39088002118610
Digitizing sponsor: Smithsonian
Book contributor: Smithsonian Institution Libraries
Collection: biodiversity
Scanfactors: 49

[StevenG]

Hi Larry, and welcome!

Get the newest ABC's... with all the changes in the last 20 years, you owe it to yourself. Also I'd suggest the latest edition of "The Hive and the Honey Bee" as well. Now, what is interesting, is as time and funds allow, get earlier editions, because looking at the pictures as well as reading the articles is fun!

In addition, of course, as you've already discovered, read these forums! :applause:
Regards,
Steven