Equipment Suggestions

[Hillbilly Tilley]

Hello All,

I also am a newbee. I have two packages of bees ordered to pickup in May. I need to get equipment ordered and ready by then and have a couple of questions. I have looked at several kits and most offer two deeps and two mediums to make a hive. I have been told by a local that he uses one deep and three mediums. To winter the bees he uses the honey which is in the deep with the bees and one medium...about 60 pounds. I was wondering if I should with the standard two deep or with his one deep and medium setup or just go with several mediums (4 or 5). The other question is about the bottom boards. I have read that for the first season a solid bottom board is better but I can see the advantage of a screened bottom board. I will be using a slatted rack above the bottom board. Will the screened bottom board cause too much ventilation and make the hive too cool to start packaged bees or make the hive too cool during the winter?

All Suggestions and Advice is greatly appreciated.

[shawnwri]

I like all medium, more flexibility. I started a package on a screened bottom board last year and they did well.

[tecumseh]

if memory serves??? you are in the se corner of the state and at some elevation (not exactly at the crest of the blue ridge, but not at sea level for sure)...

cool nights and weeks of wet and cloudy weather might make starting up from a package a bit less up and down if you started with a solid bottom board. I would not be much worried about a slatted rack until the packages build up significantly.

choice of depth of boxes is a personal thing and not so much dictated by local conditions... so if you have physical limitations (or just don't like to heft a 90 to 100 pound plugged deep) then some shallower depth (as shawnwri suggest) is not such a bad way to go. going all mediums (all any depth) has the added benefit that most equipment is priced based upon volume and therefore buying all one size of frame should be somewhat less expensive.

montani semper libre....

[JC]

I started beekeeping in 1963. I used all deeps because I had a strong back. I am now switching to all mediums. It is just a matter of time before I hurt my back with the heavier deeps.

I repainted all of my solid bottom boards and I put them into retirement. I use the bottom board with a removable screen from Kelley Co. ($19.95) . Check with Kelley to see if they are gluing those bottom boards. 2 inch brad nails will not hold those bottom boards together over the long term.

I now buy all of my frames from Kelly. Kelley frames are superior to Dadant, Brushy Mountain, Mann Lake and Rossman frames. I buy my telescoping covers from Brushy Mountain, even though they are pricey. I buy all of my inner covers from Rossman; Rossman's inner covers are the best.

I buy hive bodies from anyone and everyone. I like Rossman hive bodies because they are made of cypress; however, they do not have box or finger joints. I like box joints! Most of my hive bodies are from Dadant because I do not have to pay freight if I pick up the equipment at our state convention. However, I do not like pine hive bodies because of the sap wood and dry rot. If Rossman's cypress supers had box joints, and I could avoid the freight charges, I would buy all supers from Rossman.

[Jeffzhear]

Shipping costs have become outragious and will continue to sky rocket...so, I buy the majority of my items from Dadant which is within 20 minutes of one of my yards. I wait until I have an order that will fill my vehicle to the brim, and then truck over there and buy what I need.

I did order some gum rosin from Manns last weekend, since Dadant doesn't carry it and am biting the bullet on the shipping cost.

[drobbins]

whatever you do, do it quick
there are reports of woodenware on backorder

Dave

[Ravenseye]

I use deeps and wish I had started with mediums. I use screened bottom boards all the time. I own some slatted and solids but have never used them.

[Michael Bush]

>I was wondering if I should with the standard two deep or with his one deep and medium setup or just go with several mediums (4 or 5).

IMO all mediums is a huge step in the right direction. both for uniformity and for weight:

http://www.bushfarms.com/beeslazy.htm#uniformframesize

Eight frame mediums is another step in the right direction.

http://www.bushfarms.com/beeslazy.htm#lighterboxes

I thought it was worth enough to cut all my existing deeps down and all my existing ten frame boxes down.

http://www.bushfarms.com/beeseightframemedium.htm

I wish I'd just bought them to start with.

[WVbeekeeper]

I repainted all of my solid bottom boards and I put them into retirement. I use the bottom board with a removable screen from Kelley Co. ($19.95) . Check with Kelley to see if they are gluing those bottom boards. 2 inch brad nails will not hold those bottom boards together over the long term.

They are not glued. I got some back in February. You can put some extra nails in them to help them stay together for the long run.


I now buy all of my frames from Kelly. Kelley frames are superior to Dadant, Brushy Mountain, Mann Lake and Rossman frames.

I agree.


I buy my telescoping covers from Brushy Mountain, even though they are pricey. I buy all of my inner covers from Rossman; Rossman's inner covers are the best.

Invest in a table saw if you plan on having more colonies in the future. I got a deal on this one for $250 last month. http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u76/ccohenour1/IMG_2602.jpg


I buy hive bodies from anyone and everyone. I like Rossman hive bodies because they are made of cypress; however, they do not have box or finger joints. I like box joints! Most of my hive bodies are from Dadant because I do not have to pay freight if I pick up the equipment at our state convention. However, I do not like pine hive bodies because of the sap wood and dry rot. If Rossman's cypress supers had box joints, and I could avoid the freight charges, I would buy all supers from Rossman.

Western Bee is hard to beat on their prices. But once again, the shipping is what gets you. http://www.westernbee.com/
I like box joints, but I think the rabbeted joints are stronger. Fatbeeman thinks so too. I've always made box joints, but after making a few rabbeted joint boxes and testing the strength I think I'm going to be making them that way.

[Ravenseye]

I've always made box joints, but after making a few rabbeted joint boxes and testing the strength I think I'm going to be making them that way.

Now I'm tempted to turn the shop heater on. I've struggled with box joints and have wanted to try a few boxes with rabbet joints. I was figuring on cutting the rabbets, dry fitting the boards, gluing with Gorilla Glue (I use in on all the boxes and frames) and then stapling with narrow crown staples. What do you think?

[Lightning]

W.V. do you have a drawing of the rabbit joint you discribe and also a good link to a box joint jig?

[JC]

Now I'm tempted to turn the shop heater on. I've struggled with box joints and have wanted to try a few boxes with rabbet joints. I was figuring on cutting the rabbets, dry fitting the boards, gluing with Gorilla Glue (I use in on all the boxes and frames) and then stapling with narrow crown staples. What do you think?

It does not pay to make your own hive bodies unless you are getting some free wood. Concentrate on making your own telescoping and bottom boards; you can save a lot of money by making these items.

I use 8d 2-1/2" hot dipped galv. S/T hardboard siding nails. I drive the nail below the wood with a nail punch. Doing this keeps me from sanding off the galvanized finish of the nails! I use Titebond 3 for hive bodies and Titebond 2 for frames.

If I make nucs I use the rabbet joint; it is easy to make this cut on my table saw. If I made box joints I would have to use my router with a jig. If I buy hive bodies and supers, which I always do, I go for the box joints. Box joints have more predrilled holes, are easier to nail accurately and have more glue surfaces than rabbet joints. Boxes with box joints are also easier to square up accurately than rabbet joints. I do not buy Steve's argument (Brushy Mountain Bee Farm) that rabbet joints are better. Rabbet joints are better for Brushy Mountain Bee Farm, not for me, the beekeeper!

[JC]

They are not glued. I got some back in February. You can put some extra nails in them to help them stay together for the long run.



I agree.



Invest in a table saw if you plan on having more colonies in the future. I got a deal on this one for $250 last month. http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u76/ccohenour1/IMG_2602.jpg



Western Bee is hard to beat on their prices. But once again, the shipping is what gets you. http://www.westernbee.com/
I like box joints, but I think the rabbeted joints are stronger. Fatbeeman thinks so too. I've always made box joints, but after making a few rabbeted joint boxes and testing the strength I think I'm going to be making them that way.

I think that we beekeepers should ask Kelley Co. to glue their bottom boards. They are the only company that I am aware of that does not use glue. I will not buy more bottom boards from them until they use glue.

I doubt if there is much difference between the strength of a rabbet joint and a box joint when the boxes are glued and nailed. I find rabbet joints easier to cut and box joints easier to put together accurately. Ufortunately, some companies only offer rabbeted nucs and hive bodies. I hate drilling rabbet joints and then trying to drive nails into half the thickness of a board. On the other hand, ALL box joints are predrilled and I only nail into the full thickness of a board.