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golddust-twins
12-24-2007, 09:09 AM
This Spring I plan to go SC and have some questions about fogging as I will have to do something to help control the mites untill the bees are situated on the new comb. Can one fog all year even in the winter months? How often does one fog (once a week, month)? Are there any tricks to fogging I need to know about, any hazzards? I have been reading Dr. Rodriguez's info http://www.beesource.com/pov/rodriguez/
and some of the posts on this sight.

thanks,
Corinne

Mike Gillmore
12-24-2007, 09:43 AM
There is plenty of good reading here in the Diseases and Pests forum, do a search on "Thymol".

Here is one you can start on, a rather current discussion on the same topic

http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?t=213127&highlight=thymol

golddust-twins
12-24-2007, 10:08 AM
Thanks Mike.

Corinne

Michael Bush
12-24-2007, 10:35 AM
>Can one fog all year even in the winter months?

I would leave them alone for the winter.

> How often does one fog (once a week, month)?

I was using straight FGMO and I fogged once every two weeks most of the time and once a week in the fall.

> Are there any tricks to fogging I need to know about, any hazzards?

You mean like blowing up the hive? If you get the flame too close to a big cloud of thick fog it can ignite and if it does it will blow the top off the hive. I'm sure the flames kill a lot of mites. ;) I would be careful about too much fog too close to the flame.

golddust-twins
12-24-2007, 05:23 PM
>You mean like blowing up the hive? If you get the flame too close to a big cloud of thick fog it can ignite and if it does it will blow the top off the hive.

Exactly. Thanks for that tip -- I'll try to keep the fireworks away from the hive.

thanks,
Corinne

clintonbemrose
12-25-2007, 07:50 AM
I started using FGMO over 7 years ago when Dr. R first explaned the system and now use FGMO/Thymol. I use as per Dr. Rodregaz and have had no problems. I do not fog when the bees are clustered. Only when they are activly flying. I have had the best luck fogging weekly. I do check for mite drop in the hives. Several years ago I ran a test using 10 hives. In that year I had the Wooden ware, Comb/wax and the honey checked by independant labs for FGMOand Thymol contamination. The readings were no FGMO contamination and the Thymol readings were no greater than normally ocuring in nature.
In the test I eventually lost 4 of the 5 non treated hives to the mites but never lost the 5 hives that were treated.
If the mite drop increases in a hive I have been known to fog 2 times a week.
The most important part of fogging is to keep the fogger level and up wind of the fog and to use the proper mixture if using FGMO/Thymol.
Clint

allrawpaul
12-25-2007, 03:59 PM
can you shoot the fog directly in the entrance or do you have to come up from under the scrrened bottom board?

Mike Gillmore
12-25-2007, 06:59 PM
can you shoot the fog directly in the entrance or do you have to come up from under the screened bottom board?

I think it's your choice, doesn't really matter. Whatever works best for you, as long as you get the fog covering as many bees as possible.

I've been fogging mine from under the SBB. I have my hives set up on cinder blocks. Three sides are blocked off and then I will direct the appropriate amount of fog through the open side, immediately prop up a small piece of plywood across the opening to contain it, and then let the fog rise up through the boxes for a few minutes before removing the plywood.

Seems to work pretty well. After a couple minutes you can see the fog escaping up through the inner cover cut out, so I know it's being dispersed sufficiently throughout the hive. And when I've got my entrance reducers in place there is no need to remove them to fog.

If your hives are set up where it's best to fog through the entrance, then slide in your tray first blocking off the bottom and fog through the entrance forcing the fog up through the boxes.

Alex Cantacuzene
12-26-2007, 10:19 AM
We have been fogging during the warmer times about once a week. The mite drop this year was amazingly low but we kept up the regular fogging until late November. Now the girls have a rest. We use food grade mineral oil and the prescribed recipe for the thymol. The fogger has done good duty and we have no problems with it. It gets fired up near the BBQ grill (the lighter is there and the fire extinguisher) and by the time I get to the hives, about fifty feet away, it is well warmed up. There it spews a small amount of residue smoke from the previous use and that is when I give a small pumping action. At that point I have the nozzle in the back slot where the sliding tray normally is under the screened bottom boards. One shot of about three seconds and that is all it takes. Yes, the smoke does come out from under the telescoping cover then and I go on to the next hive. Staying up wind from the smoke is a sensible thing.
Take care and have fun.

Mike Gillmore
12-26-2007, 11:10 AM
Staying up wind from the smoke is a sensible thing.


That's a good point. If you can afford it, get yourself a respirator and relieve all the worries. Mite treatments are important, but your health trumps all.

golddust-twins
12-26-2007, 03:44 PM
Thanks for all of these tips everyone. My next question is the best place to purchase FGMO. Also I have been on the internet to look for a Burgess fogger and noticed there are different models, does it matter which model I purchase. I would like to buy one in my town but non of the stores carry them and no one seems to know what I'm talking about (typical for here).

thanks
Corinne

Mike Gillmore
12-26-2007, 05:28 PM
Read through this thread and it may help you in your fogger purchase. When purchasing mine I checked at every store in my area and none carried the models I was looking for. I ended up buying mine online.

http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?t=208880&highlight=red+bonide+fogger

As far as FGMO, just shop for the cheapest price at your local Wal-Mart or drug store. It's simply "Mineral Oil" - lubricant laxative.

But it's very important that you get the correct "Thymol" crystals. There are synthetics that can be devastating to your bees. Only buy the natural "plant extract" thymol crystals.

golddust-twins
12-26-2007, 05:51 PM
Thanks Mike, for the great tips.

Corinne