entrance reducers or mouse control for winter

[Lanier74]

I have two hives both with solid bottom boards and full opening on the front as they have been all year. Should I buy and place entrance reducers on them for the winter months to help with either the cold or mouse control? One hive is very strong and the other is very week with lots of open cone in the hive.

[Jeffzhear]

Not sure where you are located which could make a difference in what you do, but up here I've put entrance reducers in all my hives. I don't have any screened bottom boards yet, but am planning to transition in that direction. I use the commercial entrance reducers and use the smaller entrance for my standard hives. My NUC's I made reducers and the entrance is 3/4" wide by just higher then one bee in height.

Years past I used mouse guards, but decided to use the reducers this year, thinking maybe the mice won't be able to get in. (hoping anyway)

[Oldbee]

I had the experience of mice getting into one of my hives last winter. There was evidence of GNAWING on the wood entrance reducer; I didn't think much of it because the space was still pretty small. I also had 1/4 inch hardware cloth on but it wasn't down low enough on the entrance space I guess. This winter I put on the all metal mouse guards that come in three parts; from Dadant, that allow space of about 3/8 inch by 5 inches. My area has quite cold winters. Maybe where you are you need more of a balance of adequate VENTILLATION and guarding against mice. Hope someone near your area will add information.

[iddee]

If your entrance is 3/8 in. high, you should be OK. If it is 1/2 in. or higher, I would mouse proof it. Protection from the cold and ventilation is important, but not critical in this area. However, if you open a hive in the spring and find a basketball size mouse nest in the center of your bottom deep, you will NOT be a happy camper. :eek:

[Jeffzhear]

I'm thinking most of my reducers are 3/8th or smaller. I will keep a close eye out, looking for knawing...

[power napper]

I just made all our hive entrances three eighths of an inch to avoid the mouse entering problem, it has worked so far.

[Lanier74]

Thanks for all the advise. Expecially iddee since we are in the same area. I will measure my opening and see but I am pretty sure they are well over 1/2 an inch as I have no reducers on them at all right now and they have the full front open along the bottom boards.

[tecumseh]

go here...http://home.earthlink.net/~etzzzbzzz/ and then to photo clips (please excuse my incompleted web site) and see a 'jeffrey todd's' hive entrance reducer. inexpensive and I would guess you already own one. know what it is?

mice can be a problem for hives located on pallets or on the ground. they are not such a problem with bees on a pipe stand. since I am surrounded by migratory bee they also greatly limit robbing.

[Oldbee]

"mice can be a problem for hives located on pallets or on the ground." -- tecumseh.

My hives ARE located on pallets.. on bricks. I suspect that it provides a shelter and hiding place for mice; especially with a 5+ inches of snow. They are so cheap and convenient though. I did find evidence of a mouse nest under it when dismantilling the hive this spring. Maybe a more "open" type hive stand/support would be better. When it got cold in late winter they were probably desirous of and upper apartment with........ "heat included".

The "Trojan" pallet?

[Lanier74]

Hey, I guess I should have mentioned that my hives are on wooded stands that I made. One is on a 12" high standthe other is on a 15" high stand, but they are both wooden so I am sure mice will climb them. Guess I will be getting the entrance reducers.

[beehoppers]

A 3/8" tall entrance will let a mouse in. I know...

[Ian]

I reduce the enterences to reduce robbing, but dont consider mice. I dont seem to have a problem with mice overwintering inside the hives. Once of twice over the years, usually in small dinks or deadouts. Mice probably dont enter the fall hives becasue of the mass of bees in the bottom box, that chase them out.
I have a problem with mice in my hive wrapps. Poison fixes them, but they still do damage!

[Robert Brenchley]

My entrances are permanently reduced to 1/4 inch high by about 3 1/2 inches wide, with panel pins knocked in at 9mm intervals to keep mice out. The bees are happy, and I've yet to get a rodent in an occupied hive.