Marking Frames

[paulka]

I was thinking of putting a serial number on the top bar of my frames so I can keep track of what kind of foundation is in any particular one, how old they are, what hive they have been in, etc..

Have any of you tried numbering or marking frames?
If so what seems to be durable and ledgible over time?
Also, what doesn't work and why it didn't work, if you know.

Thanks!!

[Aisha]

I am interested in this too. I think a black Sharpie would work, but I can't think of a good system to do it, esp. considering that frames may eventually migrate to different hives. Should I give them numbers, letters, color codes?

[papar]

I've used colored thumb tacks which I like because I create a legend that I keep written down in my ledger. The nice thing is that, for example, if you have a frame that has emergency queen cells being built on it, you through a tack into it then when that conditions passes you remove it.

[Chef Isaac]

Thumb tacks are a good idea.

Sharpie will not work if you are using black pierco frames.

A small razor blade would work too.

Wouldnt matter if frames were moved around to another colony as you would just replace them after 5 years.

That brings up a good question.... if going by years to replace... what is the "correct" amount of passing time? Five years?

[FordGuy]

when you talk about replacing frames after 5 years, that is easy said, difficult in the execution. bees have to draw them out, and that takes wax and bee resources, and a flow. I don't understand why people replace them at all if queens continually lay in them, so the cells get smaller, I think somewhere there are folks that like a smalller cell...

[Dave W]

I have all my frames (and all other equipment also) marked w/ an engraving tool used etch metal. It doesn’t wear off and because it’s located on the end of top bar, I can tell when a frame has been reversed. By referring to my Equipment Inventory log, I can see that "frame 47" is a "deep frame", "Purchased from", and "assembled on". And from "date1" to "date2" it had a certain "type of foundation" and on "date2" that foundation was "changed to". I can also tell which frames are in the freezer :)

I also use colored thumb tacks to QUICKLY note/locate certain frames. A black one means “move this frame to bottom chamber for Spring replacement”.

[Michael Bush]

I always have some marking pens in my box so I just use them to put a dot on the frame that represents different things. I have five different colors already for queen marking. The blue dot ones are Dave W's 1 1/4" foundationless...

[Chef Isaac]

Ford: Yes, diffacult to execute unless you are organized (not claiming at all that I am... heck... I do not even track the framesl ike I should!!)

You would change them every 5 years because the wax, as you know, is a sponge and one of the things the sponge can suck up is chemicals, virsus, etc.

[nsmith1957]

I am experimenting with starter strips. Some frames have a full sheet of foundation others don't. My reason for this experimentation is to determine how well the bees draw out the foundation. ie how straight and complete it is. Also doing this for conversion to small (normal) cell. My frames are standard wood frames. I use a black sharpie and wright on the top bar something like "LC-SSP" which would mean (L)arge (C)ell foundation with a (S)tarter (S)trip that is a (P)iece (doesn't go all the way across). Or Something like this "LC-SSF" meaning the same as before except with the "F" meaning "(F)ull" it goes all the way across. You could number it or letter anyway you want to show what ever you want. You could also give the frame a "Serial Number" then keep up with what the frame is by paper or computer methods.

A side note. The bees sometimes, not always, will not draw the (P)iece of foundation all the way across. This will cause frames next to it to have comb "bulges" on each end, which makes it difficult to remove from the hive body. Some of the comb on the (P) frames curves toward another frame at the ends and will be attached to the frame next to it eventually. So the Starter Strip MUST go all the way across the top of the frame. Somebody here could have probably told me this, if I would have asked. LOL Maybe someone could save me the trouble of experimentation by telling me what is the minimum depth a starter strip must be and get the bees to draw it out properly 99% if the time.

[Aisha]

These are all great suggestions for tracking frames! I would never have thought of thumb tacks!

This is why I love this forum!

[ekrouse]

I use a wood burning pen / tool to mark both my black Pierco and wood frames. Of course I'm simploy marking a "V" for Housel positioning to indicate which side the "Y" is on ("V" is quicker to make and easier to see than a "Y"). I'm sure you can use it to mark numbers if you have the time.

[Walt McBride]

On brood wax foundation combs: if they are dry and empty I hold them up to the sun, if I do not see light through the comb the comb goes to the melter.
Walt

[wfarler]

I use a permanent sharpie to mark the company name and foundation size. if there is a discernable housel position I used to put a 'Y' for orientation but don't bother if it is plastic. Now I don't even bother on wax since no one has convinced me.

I hear you should brand the boxes and frames if you are putting your hives into pollenination.

To avoid chemical build up I don't use chemicals.

[RBar]

And, I thought I was obsessive-compulsive...!
I do write (w/Sharpie) the size cell foundation used so I can move the larger cell to the outside, then eventually out altogether. -RBAR

[Hobie]

Black permanent marker works on wood frames. I have frames marked "04" by the previous owner that are still legible. I have marked my new frames "2007" and "N" (for No foundation) where applicable. And 2 are labelled "comb honey".

[Jeffzhear]

I also mark my frames with perm. magic marker. On one side is the year "07" on the other side I have a "1" or a "9" or nothing. The "1" is for 5.1 foundation; the "9" is for 4.9 and nothing indicates it's 5.4. Works for me.