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livetrappingbymatt
04-16-2007, 11:34 AM
is there a source for wire reinforced small cell strips?
i have trouble getting non wired foundation to stay solid.
i do wire all frames.
bob

spunky
04-16-2007, 12:51 PM
Not to hijack your thread, but this is happening to me, like now.

I took deep, unwired wax foundation, cut it in half and tried to use it for starter strips in a medium box. I figured, heck more wax the better. Well I was wrong . The foundation warped and my first comb was a double , inside out comb, the other 2 are doing better. I will use the rest of this in 1 1/2 or so inch strips. I got 5 sheets of pierco in wood frames on the way to get the girls going in the right direction.


So I culled the first comb, pulled out 2 other that were going wrong and went down to 6 frames, centered in the hive. Oh well, lost my first little patch of brood.

Michael Bush
04-16-2007, 07:45 PM
I recommend 3/4" wide strips. If you go with a half of a deep in a frame, you'll need at least two horizontal wires.

If you want to run wires below the strip you can do that as well. I don't see any reason to put a wire IN the strip as a useful strip only sticks out 1/2" anyway.

spunky
04-17-2007, 07:49 AM
Michael



?????? How do you attach such a small strip into the frame ?? I was using 5/8 inch nails thru the cleat ??? Glue ??

peggjam
04-17-2007, 08:07 AM
Melted beeswax glues them in quite nicely:) .

Ruben
04-17-2007, 06:21 PM
Wax them in with a wax tube. You can buy them from most bee supply places.

Tillie
04-17-2007, 08:40 PM
I think the wax tube fastener is awkward and not easy to use, but once you get the hang of it - and I literally mean that - you have to keep it hanging in a vertical position - I lifted it up and it squirted wax all over the place - it's not so bad. I'm hoping to get better at it as I go.

I wish the wax tube fastener came with directions - I took one apart before I understood how to use the $(*%&)$(%*& thing. Now that I understand it, perhaps I can reglue the one I took apart. Luckily I ordered two of them.

Here are pictures of my experience:

http://beekeeperlinda.blogspot.com/2007/04/how-to-use-wax-tube-fastener.html

Personally I prefer using the corner of a small bread pan - it dips into the melted wax quite well and then you can pour the wax against the starter strip, holding the frame at a downward angle so the melted wax runs down and continues filling the groove.

Linda T in Atlanta

sierrabees
04-17-2007, 09:40 PM
Instead of a fancy wax tube fastener, I just take a pair of pliers and bend the small end of a spoon until it makes a pouring spout, then bend the handle so I can hang it over the edge of my wax melting pot when I'm not using it. The only complication is that unless you keep it imersed to keep it hot, the wax will build up. It's easy to peel that excess wax off every once in a while so it doesn't reduce the volume of the spoon too much.

For starter strips I wouldn't reccoment foundation with imbedded wire. It is hard to cut wires when making the strips without damaging the foundation. Plain unwired foundation works best for me, and since the wires would be too short once you cut the strips to provide much extra support they are hardly worth the effort. Dadant does advertise 4.9mm foundation with imbedded wire but I have never bought any because I don't want the wires in my way.

Michael Bush
04-18-2007, 08:13 PM
I use a wax tube fastener. If it has a cleat still attached I don't break it out. If I'm buying frames I get grooved tops. It think the wax tube fastener is much quicker and much easier than nailing those little tiny nails and it holds better. I've had them fall out when they were nailed in.

simplyflow
04-18-2007, 08:45 PM
It may be overkill, but I have been using wedge top frames, stapling the wedge to secure the starter strip, and then waxing. Worked great for me last year.

kmartin
04-18-2007, 08:54 PM
A couple of years ago the wife brought home an electric nail / stapler gun she thought would work for light uphostery work. Didn't have the punch necessary for furniture, but loaded with 9/16" brads worked great on the cleat<?>. Left enough of the brad head exposed to be removed with needle nose pliers.