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Heritage
10-20-2006, 11:04 AM
My 13 year old budding beekeeper (wants to be the youngest Master Beekeeper in VA)had an interesting question that I couldn't answer but will give it a try. We were feeding 2:1 syrup to our bees and he asked if it would be faster for the bees and maybe easier if we were to build a container for the syrup and dip empty combs into the syrup to fill the cells then replace it in the hive. Would the bees cure and cap this and use it for winter stores? I know it wouldn't exactly be honey, but I would think it would work for winter feeding. What are the thoughts of the experts? Would it save trouble for the bees, or would they still take it out of the cells, digest and regurgitate it, and replace it in the cells? Any ideas?

John F
10-20-2006, 11:15 AM
Nope. Not dumb at all.

Eagerly awaiting an answer also.

iddee
10-20-2006, 11:48 AM
They will reduce it down to about 6:1, leaving much empty space, which is the bee's worst enemy in the winter. Bees need to have as little empty space as possible during cold weather.

By the way, I have a copyright on stupid questions, stupid comments, and stupid acts. If you ever find a stupid question, which this one didn't qualify, it is mine. Send it to me and I will ask it.

[ October 20, 2006, 12:52 PM: Message edited by: iddee ]

Michael Bush
10-20-2006, 06:18 PM
The problem with dipping to fill the combs is the surface tension of the syrup combined with the air in the cells. It doesn't fill very well.

On the other hand, if you use a spray bottle and spray it in, it goes in much better. If you even use some kind of "sprinkler" that like a watering can with a sprinkler head, you can shake it into the cells. This works fine.

On the other hand, taking syrup keeps them busy when they would otherwise be robbing and fighting.

D. Murrell
10-21-2006, 08:45 AM
Hi Guys,

Like Michael mentioned, the same surface tension that keeps the honey from running out, keeps the syrup from going in.

Syrup can be sprayed or brushed in. But it's very messy and time consuming. I've tried it on a few very unique occasions and decided I'd never do it again for any reason.

W. Kelley built a machine for commercial beekeepers, that would spray syrup into empty combs. I don't think it was very popular, as I've seen a few of them setting around, but don't know of any that are in use today.

The best option is to let the bees handle the syrup. They are very efficient at it. They will take only as much as they can handle and put it where they need it.

Give my best regards to your budding beekeeper. Keep watching those bees and finding ways to cooperate with them.

Regards
Dennis

Heritage
10-21-2006, 04:48 PM
Thanks for all the input! It sounds like more work than reward. I especially liked the remark by Mr. Bush about them keeping busy instead of fighting and robbing. I hadn't thought about that aspect of it! Thanks.

PA Pete
10-21-2006, 05:37 PM
Walt Wright wrote an article in Bee Culture (http://www.beeculture.com/storycms/index.cfm?cat=Story&recordID=473) a while back about a fast/easy way to fill comb with heavy syrup. You might want to check it out.

lazybeestudio.com
10-21-2006, 06:50 PM
The bees DO need open comb to (crawl into headfirst) as they cluster tight, to generate heat efficiently in the winter.

A good ratio going in to winter with two deeps is 10 frames up top with capped honey and even 2 frames on either side of the brood nest capped. The bottom middle six frames should be open or have brood going into winter--the bees need the room.

As the bees consume stores they will move about and continue to occupy the empty cells in clustering--staying adjacent to honey.

A hive CAN get honey bound (I don't think too many of us had that problem this year).

Some folks use Permacomb as a feeding frame and make a sprinkler out of a coffee can (tapping a hundred or so, evenly spaced, small holes with a nail) to get syrup in the cells over a Rubbermaid tub. Like others have said, it sounds like a mess and a pain to deal with. I think traditional types of top-feeders are better--the bees know where they want it and will get it put away.

http://www.lazybeestudio.com
Lazy Bee - Bee & Soap Supplies - (866) LAZY-BEE

Heritage
10-22-2006, 10:52 AM
Iddee, is that what honey is: about 6:1? Thanks.

iddee
10-22-2006, 12:31 PM
If my math is correct, 5:1 is 16.66%.
Honey varies around 17 to 18 %.
I guess 5:1 would be more acurate than 6:1.

Heritage
10-22-2006, 02:23 PM
Cool, thanks.

buckbee
10-26-2006, 04:42 PM
Here's a simple way that works.

Pour dry, granulated sugar into an empty comb, then mist spray water over it. Turns to syrup instantly and no mess. Harder to do the other side, though.

D. Murrell
10-26-2006, 06:39 PM
Hi Buckbee,

I was thinking more of a high tech, nuclear powered, computer controlled, syrup injector. ;>)

But what you were thinking about is really neat!

Regards
Dennis
Tbh beekeeping just keeps getting much easier all the time.

buckbee
10-27-2006, 06:04 AM
Mmmm... well I guess we could train some nanobots to climb into the cells with a grain of sugar each and then go collect some water... but by then, Monsanto will have launched the GMBee that can mix its own syrup as well as extract its own honey and put it into jars. :confused:

Jim Fischer
10-27-2006, 06:16 AM
>> Bees need to have as little empty space as
>> possible during cold weather.

Disagree. Filling 100% of frames or even
60% in the configuration to be overwintered
would be a bad thing in colder areas, with
less impact in warmer areas where a tight
cluster is less mission-critical.

> The bees DO need open comb to (crawl into
> headfirst) as they cluster tight, to generate
> heat efficiently in the winter.

Agree. If equipped with a fall feeder, the
bees will set up the hive as described by
Lazybee.

[ October 27, 2006, 07:48 AM: Message edited by: Jim Fischer ]

iddee
10-27-2006, 07:29 AM
>>>> Bees need to have as little empty space as
>> possible during cold weather.

Disagree. Filling 100% of frames or even
60% in the configuration to be overwintered
would be a bad thing in colder areas, with
less impact in warmer areas where a tight
cluster is less mission-critical.<<<<

It is your right to disagree, but that doesn't make you right. tongue.gif :D

The question comes from VA. You being from there, you should realize a full hive going into winter will eat enough to make all the free space they need before HARD clusters are needed.

lazybeestudio.com
10-27-2006, 10:41 AM
Obviously, many variables influence the amount of stores needed for a hive going into winter including regional climate & population of the colony--not to mention other factors such as race of bee, colony health, and of course the beekeeper's intentions.

Our opinion on stores is that they should be maintained in moderation. You can always supplement with feeders during cold months if a hive becomes light. It is much harder to take away and rearrange a hive--if a problem arises.

1.) Open space is needed not only for heat concentration of a contacting cluster but, also for a queen that will continue to lay through the winter--such as Italinas.

2.) Excess stores coming out of winter can, for instance, in NWC colony (who's queen ceases laying in the coldest part of winter), cause broodnest congestion--leading to swarming as brood-rearing explodes all of the sudden in late winter. THE KEY TO PREVENT SWARMING IS BROOD NEST EXPANSION.

In order to achieve this brood nest expansion, it will require that you manipulate frames to keep open cells below and evenly spaced from the center early on in a new season.

Like the saying goes: "There are as many right ways to do something in beekeeping as there are beekeepers."

The Bees know best.

Lazy Bee - Beekeeping and Soapmaking Supplies
"We work harder to make your beekeeping easier!"

http://www.lazybeestudio.com
Toll Free: (866) LAZY-BEE (866) 529-9233

Jim Fischer
10-27-2006, 01:03 PM
> It is your right to disagree,

Why thank you sooo much! smile.gif

> but that doesn't make you right.

OK, how else might bees cluster properly?

> The question comes from VA. You being from
> there, you should realize a full hive going
> into winter will eat enough to make all the
> free space they need before HARD clusters
> are needed.

Being "from there" means that I may have a
better feel for what is needed than you may.
I think you have no idee at all. smile.gif

Perhaps what you suggest is appropriate for
an area like yours, where snow is rare, and
ice storms are the worst winter scenario
you have. I dunno, and I'm not going
to make the error of speculating about areas
where I have not overwintered hives.

But I can't say anything without prompting
such argument, now can I? If I said to fill
up all the combs, you'd argue the other side
of the issue, just for the sake of argument.

sqkcrk
10-27-2006, 01:20 PM
Yup, dumb question. smile.gif smile.gif No, just kidding. Not a dumb question at all.

I've done this in the past. A garden watering can works well or take a coffee can and punch some holes in it with the corner of your hive tool. You want to sprinkle the syrup, corn or sugar, into the cells. Messy, but it works.

Smart kid.

iddee
10-27-2006, 04:19 PM
>>>Being "from there" means that I may have a
better feel for what is needed than you may.
I think you have no idee at all. [Smile] <<<

I guess you are right. I'm a whole SIXTY MILES from VA. What was I thinking, trying to guess weather that far away.

You're as much fun as poking a stick at a rattler, just to hear it rattle. I think you may rattle even easier, I don't know. :D :D ;)

Jim Fischer
10-27-2006, 05:23 PM
Iddee, I lived in Greensboring, NC for a few
years in the late 1980s, so I am very familiar
with the massive difference in the weather between
NC and VA.

So dodge and weave all you like, but all it
will do is get you hired by the Republican
party or Fox News.

iddee
10-27-2006, 05:44 PM
Well, getting back to the topic of dumb questions...Hey, Jim, ya want to become a republican??? I can get you in here if you don't let your background be known.

Barry, that is the name of the thread.
:D :D :D :D

drobbins
10-27-2006, 07:07 PM
I have a couple of boxes of honey supercell
it's to late in the year to introduce it
I was thinking of using buckbee's idea of pouring some suger into it then adding some water to make sort of a fondant candy sort of stuff in the cells then putting them on top of hives
it would be kinda like a candy board to give them extra feed and it would get the frames introduced into the hive rather than having them sit in the basement all winter
thoughts??
good idea / stupid idea??

what say yea?
Dave

[ October 27, 2006, 08:09 PM: Message edited by: drobbins ]

sierrabees
10-27-2006, 11:27 PM
The only stupid idea is the one that don't work because you never thought it out or tried it out.

Michael Bush
10-28-2006, 10:41 AM
>I was thinking of using buckbee's idea of pouring some suger into it then adding some water to make sort of a fondant candy sort of stuff in the cells then putting them on top of hives

If you have enough stores what would be the point? If you don't, it's a great idea.

drobbins
10-28-2006, 11:39 AM
The point would be to get the combs into the hives and smelling like bees to encourage acceptance next spring when I move them and use them where I want to (in the broodnest)
The hives are strong and don't really need the help
I just keep hearing people talk about acceptance issues with plastic comb and thought letting them sit on a hive all winter full of syrup might help
Otherwise they just sit in the basement

BTW, it just hit 70F and the bee's are rockin smile.gif

Dave

[ October 28, 2006, 12:40 PM: Message edited by: drobbins ]

iddee
10-28-2006, 02:00 PM
No fact here, only opinion, but it sounds like the perfect setup for raising hundreds of shb. Plenty of feed, hiding places, and the bees stay below.

drobbins
10-28-2006, 02:17 PM
hmm, an interesting point
I wonder if SHB can survive the winter in an empty box away from the cluster or if they need to be in or near the cluster for warmth
this is the wrong forum for this
I think I'll start a thread over in diseases and pests

Dave

Walts-son-in-law
10-28-2006, 05:17 PM
More chuckles for Walt.

drobbins
10-28-2006, 06:19 PM
Roy

thanks for the info
it's good to know Walt's having a good time smile.gif

Dave

Walts-son-in-law
11-01-2006, 11:28 PM
Sorry, meant to delete that. Anytime Walt's name is mentioned, I print out the thread and register it in my "Topic Notifications" so I get an email whenever there is a new posting. So far, the only way to do that is for me to add a reply using the "Full Reply Form". I apologize for using forum space this way, but no one has informed me of a different way to do this. Ah well, maybe this will be taken care of in the upgrade.

Roy