Tired of reinventing the wheel

[Walt McBride]

Could anyone direct me to a source where I could see a simple (cleated hive), lifter. To be used on a boom to lift say a two deep box hive? When I dream up things like this I usually over build and would like to see a simple, minumin material, dependable cleat lifter.
Walt

[sierrabees]

I don't know a source for plans, but if you locate a good picture of a set of logging tongs, it is easy to design something similar with lighter weight material and the bottom of the tongs shaped to conform to the hive body. This is one of the simplest mechanical devices you will ever see.

[Ishi]

The boom on my truck has 2 forks about 2" X 1/4" steel long enough to fit under the bottom board if a hive. I use a 2 x 2 cleat for the base of the bottom board.The forks are lifted by a cable. Could send you pic direct do not how to post one to the list.

[Alex Cantacuzene]

Hi Walt et al, I have been playing around with a hive lifter for two deeps. I did not like the idea of the "ice tongue" method. I have used two pipe clamps that you can assemble easily from iron water pipe and the clamp attachments from the hardware store. Onto the pipes of the clamps I slid two short pieces, about the length of a hand grip, that were cut lengthways and spread open onto the pipes about midway. These short pieces have a chain welded to it at the split that reaches up to a "spreader beam". A flat piece (about 5/16" x 2" x about17") of steel that has a 5/16 dia rod welded in the middle of a narrow side as a loop for the hook. The ends of the flat bar (the spreader beam) have also 5/16" hooks welded on to take the chain from below. I found out that it is very important to also have two pieces of flat bar welded at 90 deg to the spreader beam and about 10" apart, on both sides that will reach to the end of the top cover. This will prevent the hive boxes to tilt over, (can be a mess, I know). The whole thing works well for me. It does not chew into the wood as the clamps work on compressing the long side of the hive. How it will work for a large operation I don't know. Take a look at Photoshop.com and enter Habedere. Hope this gives you some answers. Take care and have fun.

[Ardilla]

Looks like Alex meant photobucket.com

[Alex Cantacuzene]

Thanks Ardilla, you're right!

[Alex Cantacuzene]

Hi all, on the photo "Inspection on hands and knees" you can see the red "spreader beam." Subsequent experience taught me to add the flat bars on the bottom edge of the spreader beam that are about the length of the outer cover. Also the spreader beam has to be very close to the top cover before lifting, not like shown on the photos. This can be adjusted with the chains as they are hooked on the welded-on hooks at the end of the spreader beam. Once all this is done it works well. The set-up as shown had me flip the two boxes while moving the tractor, the girls were not very happy. At one point I also used some bungey cords from the hook to the clamps for additional safety. I am not sure if that did anything though but nothing flipped. Take care and have fun.

[loggermike]

Heres one made from aluminum.Its on a Payne hydraulic loader.This one can pick up 2 double deeps.The photo quality is poor but can take more if need be.I have a smaller steel lifting chair on a Freutel electric Bee Boom for picking up 2 deep and medium hives.Can get some pics of that if you want.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b278/loggermike/000_0268.jpg

[Walt McBride]

Thank you folks for your input. I am trying to build a cleated hive, lifter or cradle such as loggermike posted.
Mike what is the size of the vertical aluminum it looks like 1-1/2"? I will be using steel as I have a stick welder so I think I can go 1".
I like it's simplicity.
Walt

[loggermike]

Yes its 2" X 1and1/2" tubular.

This one is mostly flat 2" quarter inch steel except the top piece is 2" square 1/8" tubular steel.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b278/loggermike/000_0270.jpg

[Flyer Jim]

I rented "Ulee's Gold" and watched it over and over until I figured out how the cradle on his boom truck worked. So I built one like it that squeezes the box underneath the cleats. Afterall that work, its a bit overkill. Simple is better. If I was building another one I would build another one like loggermike's. I have seen some that have handles that fold down so you can push the hive into the middle of the truck easier. The handle has a latch at the top to keep it closed for close work. I've seen a lot of these cradles and no two the same.
You can make it adjustable by using square tubing like 1 1/4 x 1/8 and then a 1" square tube will slide inside of it. Then you can drill 1/4" holes in the inside tube and run a bolt through it for adjustments.
Jim

[loggermike]

The flat steel one has been in use for many years.We cut it down when we went to a 1 and 1/2 hive figuration instead of double deeps.It has more 'flex' than the rigid aluminum one.
Jim, I like the idea of an extension handle.Getting that middle row is always a problem with me(short arms).

[Alex Cantacuzene]

Hi Walt et al, I just looked at a site: www.aluminumrepair.com (http://www.aluminumrepair.com) and it is amazing. I am just a hobbyist and the things that I do are mostly "outside of the box." The hive lift I built was done mostly with just scrap that was under the work bench and works for me. My interests are also not in a commercial direction. However, if I would want to build a hive lifter as shown by Loggermike I would definitely look into using aluminum and HTS-2000. I am sure I would be on the right track. But then again, I like hobby-like challenges. Take care and have fun.