Designing and Building Hive Tops

[Jon McFadden]

After building hive covers based on the two favorite designs, the migratory and telescoping, I still haven't found one that I like. Currently I just cut a piece of 3/4" plywood, paint the dickens out of the exposed side and flop it on the hives. The bees don't seem to mind if the lid curls a bit with the change in humidity.
I mainly used the migratory style in the past because that is the way I was taught. I find that all the cleats added to each end don't really benefit me and waste wood, since I don't stack the hives in close proximity to each other or on top of each other.
Any other thoughts?
Jon

[JWG]

I add a 3/8" rim to the top surface of the plywood, on three sides, so that the lid can double as a floor. On many of mine I also added a 1/4" rim to the lower side as well.

The hive body manufacturers (some anyway) do not provide a full bee space above the top bars. They tend to leave more below the frames. (So much for the American top bee space.) There is barely a bee space there, really and it is bound to be reduced further by the build up of propolis on the frame rests. I believe the lack of space under the cover can also hinder the lateral movement of the bees -- something they need to do in winter especially. The extra rim takes the simplicity out of the flat lid but I hate crushing the bees with a flat board cover.

[Jon McFadden]

JWG
Adding anything to the top is not acceptable to me. The cleats make a place for moisture to attact the wood. When I put the top on, I first knock the top against the front of the hive to remove the bees on the lid. I then give the bees on the top a light puff of smoke, then slide the top on the top of the stack from the rear.

I use a different type of bottom board.
If you look at the one in the photos, you will find the one I use.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/beekeeping/lst?.dir=/Floor+Without+a+Floor&.src=gr&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/
It is copied after one of the older styles that allow a killion board to be inserted. There is 1-1/2" between the bottom board and the bottom bars. It is reversable so there is a regular opening on the reverse side.
If after a few years, the landing part is deteriorated from the weather, I remove it and add a new piece. It just slides in from the front.
The landing board in the photo is extra long because I found a piece of plywood the correct width and was too lazy to trim it flush with the side rails.
Jon

[Michael Bush]

I'm planning on cutting a lot of them from 3/4" plywood exactly the size of the box and then put a shim on each side to make the top entrance. I've been doing this opening the long side with a migratory cover, but am considering that they would stack better when not used without the cleates and I could fit more of them on my "rails" if the narrow side was the entrance.

[Joel]

Jon, the problem with curled lids is that it ties too many bees up as quard bees. We tried several flatwood styles and settled on 1/2 inch plywood with 2 front rails 1/2 x 1 and 2 lengthwise rails same size set in from the ends 3 inches or so and short enough they do not meet the front and rear rails.(to allow rain to runoff) We are quite happy with these. We move our hives 1500+ miles a year and they have held up better than dadants flatwood cover.

[Jon McFadden]

Joel,
I can see extra guard bees as a potential problem.
I have tried to present a graphic of what you are describing on the beekeeping forum's photo section:
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/beekeeping/lst?&.dir=/Floor+Without+a+Floor&.src=gr&.view=t&.url=http%3a//us.f1.yahoofs.com/groups/g_39335/Floor%2bWithout%2ba%2bFloor/Hive%2bC over.jpg%3fbcrCUmxBbmT5v9qE&.cx=150&.cy=111&.type=u (http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/beekeeping/lst?&.dir=/Floor+Without+a+Floor&.src=gr&.view=t&.url=http%3a//us.f1.yahoofs.com/groups/g_39335/Floor%2bWithout%2ba%2bFloor/Hive%2bCover.jpg%3fbcrCUmxBbmT5v9qE&.cx=150&.cy=111&.type=u)
I'm sure I got it wrong, but I would like to look at your design. I like the idea of using the 1/2" plywood vs. the 3/4" plywood I now use.
Jon