FGMO Twice A Week...?

[Kevin M]

I read here some fog up to twice a week with FGMO, i'd like to know what those with experience think of bi-weekly fogging...thanks...

[Sundance]

IMO fogging with FGMO alone will help
with tracheal mites, but for effective
varroa control the addition of thymol
is needed. Just my opinion mind you.
Iddee from this board sells thymol
in 50 gram lots. Good stuff.

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Recipe via Dr R


FGMO-THYMOL FORMULA FOR CORDS AND BURGESS FOGGER
(Do not use thymol in your formula with honey supers on)
The purpose of the FGMO-Thymol for these formulae is to obtain a concentration of thymol no higher than 5.49% thymol for the fogger and 2.53% thymol for the emulsion soaked cords.
Emulsion soaked cords
1000 cc mineral oil @ 0.86 density
(*) (860 grams (30.34 oz.))
100 grams (3.53 oz.) thymol
1000 grams honey (2-1/4 pounds)
1000 grams beeswax (2-1/4 pounds)
100 pieces of cotton cord (40 inches long each)
Add the weight of the ingredients without the cords
Divide into 100 grams thymol

Thus:
100 = 2.53 % thymol
3960 total weight

Fogger
1000 cc mineral oil @ 0.86 density
(*) (860 grams (30.34 oz.))
50 grams (1.76 oz.) thymol
Add the weight of above
Divide into 50 grams thymol

Thus:
50 = 5.49 % thymol
910 total weight

(*) 1000 cc of FGMO of 0.86 density weighs 860 grams
Remove 100 cc FGMO from 1000 cc to dilute thymol. See instructions below.


Instructions for diluting thymol
These instructions replace previous instructions for dilution of thymol with alcohol. Even though alcohol utilized for dilution of the thymol evaporates readily, I wish to dismiss potential offenses to millions of brothers in faith who oppose use of alcohol. The new formulae are not only more cost-effective and not offensive to non-alcohol consumers, but also easier to prepare minimizing the risk of adding a flammable agent to the formula.


Instructions for making dilution for the fogger
Remove 100 cc FGMO from the 1000 cc intended for mixture. Place 100 cc FGMO in a mason jar. Add 50 grams thymol for fogger and 100 grams for emulsion cords, and secure cup tightly. Place a metal container filled with water (e.g. cooking ware) on a heat source. Place glass jar with the 100 cc FGMO and thymol in the water of the heating vessel. Swish/swirl jar as the water heats up until thymol dissolves completely. Solution will become slightly amber in color (normal change). The solution is now ready to add to the rest of the FGMO intended for use in the fogger or the cords.


Instructions for making FGMO-thymol emulsion
Place 900 cc FGMO in a metal or ceramic container and place container over a heat source. Allow oil to heat. Add 1000 grams (2-1/4 pounds) beeswax and stir well until wax is totally melted. Remove container from heat source. Add 1000 grams (2-1/4 pounds honey) and stir well until it blends into wax-FGMO mixture. Add 100 cc FGMO-thymol mixture previously diluted as per instructions above. Add cords immediately and stir until they are well soaked with the solution. Pack cords in a tightly sealed container and store in a cool place. Your emulsion-soaked cords will be ready to use as soon as the emulsion cools.


Instructions for making FGMO-thymol mixture for fogger
Add 100 cc FGMO-thymol mixture (obtained as per instructions above for diluting thymol) to 900 cc FGMO (remainder of the 1000 cc needed) and shake well. This will result in a 5.49 % FGMO-thymol solution. Fill your fogger container. You are now ready to fog. Set fogger on a level, steady surface. Turn gas valve to the left 1/4 turn. Listen for a slight hissing sound from your fogger. Light your fogger from underneath (I recommend using a butane stove lighter for this purpose). Wait. You should notice a drop or two of oil dripping from the spout of the fogger. Next, you should notice a small emission of oil mist similar to that of a lit cigarette. Next, the fogger will emit a larger puff of oil mist. The fogger is now ready for fogging. Holding the fogger parallel to the ground, point the nozzle directly at your hive entrance. DO NOT AIM THE FOGGER DOWNWARD! Place a tray or shield below the hive if you use screen-bottom boards to direct flow of mist into the hive. Pull the trigger of the fogger 3-4 times, while you count 1001, 1002, 1003, and 1004, depending on the population size of your hives. When fogging, please wear a respirator for safety reasons. Never add any other ingredient to your fogger when following this procedure. Do not use foggers that may have been used for spraying pesticides previously. Residues from the insecticide may have remained imbedded in the container. These residues would then be transferred to your FGMO-thymol solution and result in probable bee kills.

[Michael Bush]

I did every other week except in the fall when I did once a week.

[clintonbemrose]

I fog once a week with FGMO/Thymol
Clint

[Kevin M]

Thanks everyone...

[Donna Marie, Honeybee by the Sea]

I am new to fogging, started in July, fogging once a week without Thymol. I have had honey supers on the whole time (except when extracting) and they are back on now.

I love this method because I do not have to remove the supers, break down the entire colony to powder sugar them, and then repeat the process in seven days for three weeks.
The fact that I can fog even when the supers are on is critical, as we have something 'doing' nectar wise almost the entire year.

I should also mention I am using small cell foundation and very pleased with it.

After reading many posts here the fourth leg of my IPM program will be to introduce 30% new foundation every year to the brood chamber,small cell of course, to keep the brood chamber constantly renewing wax with a goal to keep disease at bay.

Thats the plan, hope it works!

Cheers Donna Marie

[Kevin M]

I recently added a very few drops of wintergreen pure essential oil to my FGMO. I don't know as it's made a difference.. I know varroa hates wintergreen..i also know to much wintergreen can kill the bees...Haven't tried thymol, hoping i don't have to.
Donna Marie have you ever tried permacomb...? if so , how do you like it...?

[Donna Marie, Honeybee by the Sea]

Hi Kevin,
I am a wood and real wax kind of person...and as I mentioned above, even though it may cause my honeybees to work a little harder and cut into my surplus honey, I plan to introduce new foundation every year to keep things nice and clean.

I run three 8 frame mediums for brood, and typically the bottom box is empty in spring. My plan is to remove the used frames and feed new ones into the brood nest.

Some say the permacomb works great for them, but I have no experience with it. One of my neighbors had very bad luck with her first colony on plastic. But it may be other factors than the comb.

Cheers Donna Marie

[Kevin M]

Thanks Donna....i'm trying some permacomb this spring with all med. boxes.I'm also going to use some wood frames with starter strips, let them build there own comb...