Thinking about FGMO?

[Dave W]

In the past, statements about Food Grade Mineral Oil (FGMO) have been met w/ despicable conduct. It is NOT my wish to create or indulge in any form of debate.

There are many NewBEEs joining this forum daily, some have expressed an interest in FGMO. Hopefully the following will ONLY ADD to the "information" they are seeking.

When I joined BeeSource (in ????), the use of FGMO was being promoted strongly. Back then, FGMO did not contain any additives (Thymol) and no cords were used. Only "plain" mineral oil was applied w/ an insect fogger. Discussions of its use often included the words, "I have no mites".

As the phrase "I have no mites" was used often and some users lost colonies, the discussions became very heated. About two years went by of "having no mites" and then it was proclaimed that "cords" were necessary (soaked in mineral oil without additives). Now it was "recommended" to use plain oil in the fogger AND plain cords. Discussions became MORE heated.

At this point, "confusion" was added, confusion about what kind of oil to use, what kind of cords, how to apply both and how often. The "I have no mites" was beginning to fade (still used, but not as often). Fearing the “wrath” that always followed, discussions were now becoming one-sided; most folks were uneasy asking questions.

Then the "commandment" to use Thymol came abruptly. It was announced as an "improvement to make FGMO more effective". This set off a fire-storm. Mud-slinging, name-calling, personal attacks, the mayhem is hard to describe. There was one reasonable question being asked, "If plain FGMO worked, why add something to make it better".

"I have no mites" was now replaced w/ "no silver bullet". Statements posted on BeeSource from here on had little to do w/ FGMO. It was ugly and shameful.

Many (I've lost count) have tried using FGMO and some still report "having good results". However, the “research community” has not “blessed” the use of FGMO. The following summary of comments by members of the Association of Professional Apiculturists (AAPA) can be found in ABJ, 7/04, p519 (These are quotes, not my words):
 Mark Feldlaufer - His experience (has been testing Burgess Fogger for Varroa control) give him no reason to think mineral oil alone is effective.
 Medhat Nasr - A beekeeper “used this fogger machine for 2 years. In winter of 2nd year, she lost 600 out of 800 hives to Varroa”.
 John Gruszka - After treating all summer, “menthol-treated hives had 1 to 4% Tracheal mite levels and fogger treated hives had levels of 17 to 32%.
 Patti Elzen - Can demonstrate mite fall w/ water spray.
 Keith S. Delaplane, PhD - Efficacy record is weak or at best incomplete for FGMO foggers. There is grave concern over hive contamination and non-target effects.

Other comments include (Quotes, not my words):
• Research by USDA-ARS, Weslaco, TX, funded by National Honey Board, indicates fogging mineral oil (without additives) is of no benefit in controlling Varroa or improving overall colony health [ABJ, 12/04, p923, ABJ, 4/05, p271].
• Research has shown that fogging a colony w/ FGMO is ineffective [BC, 9/05, p50].
• Fogged mineral oil (without additives) is of some value, however, tests show smoking hive w/ dried sumac seed heads (in a smoker) is of greater effectiveness [ABJ, 11/04, p863].

Warnings about the use of FGMO have been published (Quotes, not my words):
"Applying FGMO w/ insect fogger poses a FIRE THREAT in beeyard, especially during dry conditions. Fogger is designed to apply an emulsifiable concentrated insecticide in WATER. While applying FGMO, (the oil) can flare-up producing a large flame and a blast of hot air [ABJ, 12/04, p923] (FGMO is a class III-B combustible liquid w/ a flash point of 4280 F [DLW]). Experience w/ the fogger indicates it can be a danger to both bees and beekeepers [BC, 3/05, p28]."

Exposure to FGMO through inhalation and exposed skin is unknown according to ABJ, 12/04, p923, but "industrial users" have been informed that, "Exposure to mineral oil mists can cause eye, skin, and upper respiratory tract irritation as well as central nervous system effects. Can result in localized irritation of mucous membranes, headaches, dizziness, and drowsiness. Aspiration of mineral oil mists into lungs can result in blue coloration of the skin, rapid heartbeat, fever, and chemical pneumonia. Ingestion (of mists) causes burning sensation in the mouth, throat, and stomach followed by vomiting, diarrhea, and belching [http://www.osha-slc.gov/SLTC/healthguidelines/oilmist/recongnition.html - Accessed 7/6/04]." A proposed (fall 2001) change would lower TLV-TWA of mineral oil mists to 0.2 mg/m3 and assign an A2, Suspected Human Carcinogen, designation [http://www.socplas.org/public/worksafe/mineraloil.htm].

But still, interest in FGMO remains (Quotes, not my words):
 In 2005, funding to examine potential side effects of mineral oil (and essential oils) on colony brood and honey production has been provided (Feb 05 - Summer 05) by The National Honey Board to Jeff Pettis, USDA-ARS, Beltsville, MD [ABJ, 4/05, p271].
 In 2006, funding was provided by The National Honey Board to Jeff Pettis, USDA-ARS, for (additional?) study of mineral oil and essential oils in controlling Varroa [ABJ 4/06, p285].

Perhaps a safe method of using FGMO as a “carrier” of a known and effective mite killer can found. Hey, lets try Thymol smile.gif

The last "rant" I read said to fog once a week (sometimes bi-weekly). For someone was willing to do this, why not use powdered sugar? At least powdered sugar is blessed by the Florida Dept. of Agriculture.

[Frank Shinji]

Just some comments that I've observed:

1. FGMO by itself increases self-grooming and allo-grooming by a good factor. Mite drops after fogging with plain FGMO seem to increase about 30%-50% in my empirical experience. Obviously this is a prophalytic procedure and won't save you from a heavy infestation.

2. FGMO with Thymol does all of what number one does with a higher mite drop, around 50%-60%. I haven't observed other behavior. I am interested that the product ApiLifeVar is a Thymol based product and claims 90% efficacy.

3. Cords seem to help alot. Unfortunately I have no records that I have kept on this and I used them mostly in my outyard. I have observed that bees that come in contact with the cords (or paper towels) or are actively trying to remove them have increased grooming activity.

I used FGMO w/Thymol for three weeks one week apart and now have from what I can see a hive with a low varroa count. Shop towels with FGMO and wintergreen were also used along w/grease patties. I know they had a moderate count when they where hived as a swarm (20 mites/day). Reading Dr. Rodriguez's article it seems that it's pretty imperative to use cords along with the fogging. I wonder if the above cited studies did so but I admit I have not read them. Even though I didn't read the studies above there seem to be several factors related to pest control which even in the best testing environment would be hard to control. A hobbyiest beekeeper could FGMO one week (w/or w/out Thymol), Sugar blast every other day for a week (bad infestation), Sucrocide the week after, rinse and repeat with the FGMO and Sucrocide. Mite counts, as you might expect, went to 1-2 week until there was a dearth and a lot of robbing activity started up. OA drip or fog in the fall and spring is standard procedure for alot of beekeepers. Then you have the SBB's (worthwhile IMHO just so you can do easy Mite-counts), Slatted Racks (stopped bearding on the front of the hives they got installed in), top vs. bottom entrances (production went up on the top entrance hives), the effects of robbing w/hitchhiker varroa, queen excluders (bad except to keep swarm queens in), SC vs. LC, climate (mites reproduce more when it's warm), essential oils (seems to help at least with T-mites) and the breed of bees (SMR and Hygienic). Breaking the brood cycle also seems to be a major factor, split those bees! So maybe "swarmy" bees or bees that supersede often have an edge with varroa control. It seems to me a complicated subject. I tried to remember most of the points but I know I forgot some. Oh, copper screen on SBB's will eliminate varroa, hahaha, also Vick's Vapor rub. smile.gif

Frank

P.S. - Whoops, had to edit already. Forgot all about Drone trapping!

[ August 18, 2006, 04:35 AM: Message edited by: Frank Shinji ]

[Tia]

I tried using the cords in concert with fogging, but even using exactly the cords Dr. Rodriguez prescribes, I found that the bees, in their efforts to remove them from the hive, were getting tangled up. So I'm straight fog every 5 days now and it seems to work quite well. I've got seven hives on SBBs and slatted racks, and they're as strong as I've ever had them and I attribute that to Walt Wright's nectar management.

[popscott]

My two cents worth…

I have used the fogger for a couple of years now(no cords). Along with it I use a screen bottom board and the drone traps to combat the mites. My main objective was to try the non-chemical treatments, but since using Thymol I guess I’ve crossed that line. The first year I tried fogging with plain FGMO (which I did even with the supers on) once a week. This second year I bought Thymol from Dr. P. and have been using it all year.(removing the honey supers to the side, fogging and waiting, then reinstalling supers (all perma-comb)). Yea, Thymol has a real smell, and I’m trying not to fog any honey supers directly. Although some reports show thymol does not contaminate the honey/wax, the lingering odor in my nose tells me not to go there. I intently did not chemically treat my hives last fall so as to specifically test the fogger performance. (as in dead mite falling onto sticky boards after treatment)

I have monitored the "natural" mite count on a sticky board inserted under the screened bottom board most times I’ve fogged…..I take a 24 hour count before I fog, clean up and re-coat the sticky board and then do a 2 hour count and a 24 hour count after I’ve fogged. When using FGMO with or without Thymol, I have NEVER seen an INCREASE in mite count on the sticky board after a treatment, comparing 24 hours before to a 24 hour after count. My mite count results do not reflect the same results as some other results I have seen on the web.

The one "flaw" I can see in the fogging process (and probably effects my natural mite count, also) is the fact that this fogging is done during the day, which means a fair share of the bees are out foraging, and this means your only fogging PART of the adult bee/mite population.

I will continue to use the FGMO/Thymol as a tool against the mite along with the sbb and drone trap and would CHALLENGE anyone on the forum here to put sticky boards under their hive and get some actual "natural" mite counts to see if this is knocking mites off after treatment. My mite count was a high 120+ at the height of the brood rearing time this year, but has came back down to an exceptable 25, the last count I did….. Was it the Fogger, was it the SBB, was it the drone trap, that helped reduce this number? Don’t know, but with the combination of all three, "natural" mite count has went down greatly. I have yet to use Apistan on these hives, but will this fall after supers removed.

One thing I can say I’ve noticed about varroa in a hive….the cheapest, non-intrusive, and works 24 hours a day /7 days a week "tool’ is the SBB (Screened bottom board) put off the ground 1 foot (12 ") or more. If 20 mites fall out the bottom a day, think how many less reproducing female mite WON’T be in the hive at months end.

Again, just my two cents worth………

Thanks,
Scott
http://www.justkiddinfarm.com/

[Sundance]

I would not count on FGMO alone for mite
control, never have, never will. I do use
it with thymol in conjunction with small
cell brood nest. It works for me.

[Frank Shinji]

Would love to see more tests. FGMO seems to pretty much be a part of a larger IPM regimen.

Any company never had much reason to push FGMO, not much mark-up on a propane fogger and some laxative. Old-timers seemed to laugh at it anyway and were happy with apistan and cuoamphos. Thymol crystals are easy to get off the net. And of course w/out a freaking doubt someone would fog with the honey supers on and then sue someone because their honey tasted like thyme.

Easy to understand why no supplier would be interested in FGMO at all. BUT, now we have this ApiLifeVar that is basically a thymol gel. Seems like Doc Rodriguez was on to something! Makes sense now that he was clearly stating that the emulsion cords were critical for high efficacy. Kudos should go out to him for figuring out that thymol was the key and all it needed was an effective delivery system. Beyond that he should get a Nobee-l prize for sticking it out and publishing the results.

And the buzz goes on. Seems like it's always the little guys with passion for what they're doing that are finding answers that work, like SC, FGMO and/or Thymol, menthol crystals and grease patties for the T-mites, sugar-blasting and actually breeding survivor feral bees that are selected for their environment (wow, what an idea! I need to tell Brother Adam or Bush about this!). None of those creative solutions or helpful parts of IPM are going to make the pharmaceutical companies or the bee equipment suppliers a bunch of money. But I think they might make beekeeping a little more enjoyable with less dead-outs every year, more productive hives and maybe less time spent managing each hive.

Well, I'll just keep writing as the urge hits. If anyone has any suggestions or comments I welcome them. Beekeeping to me seems much like anything worth doing. Beekeeping presents itself as an attitude toward life, this is just my experience. You can try and control it all and drive yourself nuts trying to do everything right and playing god with your bees or you can realize it's all about progress, not perfection. Just dig in, be a student, be willing to try new things, have an open mind, enjoy the ride... and go from there.

[Russ]

Very well said Frank. My thoughts exactly on the FGMO. No money to be made by the Bee Suppliers. Dale