Hook
03-20-2005, 09:31 AM
Since we are on this topic, I am going to let you know how mine was built, and how it works. I have had tremedous success using it, and the time saving factor is overwhelming, at least to me.
My incubator measures 18 inches long, 8 inches wide, and 16 inches high.
18 inches long, was selected, because I made cell bars, that are 17 inches long, and slide into dado cuts of the side bars of my cell frame. I made 2 bars to a frame. 18 inches is how it turned out. The key thing is, getting the removable bars to fit inside the incubator. I used Mann Lake cell cup base holders, cell cup bases, and cell cages. Brushy Mountain sold something along the same line if I recall.
I chose 8 inches wide, because I can easily fit 6 bars into the incubator, meaning I can put 60 cells in with ease.
16 inches high. This will depend on the light socket height. With the light bulbs installed mine are about 5 inches high. I allowed 4 inches from the bottom of the cell to the top of the light. Add the cell cage length, 3 inches give or take, and what ever is left on the top, for easier manipulation. Doing the math its 4 inches. My top cover has the inside dimensions of the box mounted to the bottom of it, so it fills the box, for better insulation. I used a 3/4 inch piece for that. So part of the top cover fits inside the box.
I mounted cell bar rails on the sides, to support the cell bars. Next, you don't want stagnant air inside, so I added a 12 volt computer fan, to circulate air. To achieve circulation, a duct was made on the upper edge of the incubator, under the top cover insert, and channeled down to the fan bottom. Since the fan blows up, you get a constant turnover of air.
I was fortunate to have an electronics background, so I mounted a computer power supply to the bottom, to run the fan. Any 12 volt power source will work.
I also mounted a deflection guide at a 45 to 60 degree angle to deflect the airflow, opposite of the duct intakes. I say 45 to 60, because it was mounted to fit!
Heat and control. I used 2 60 watt light bulbs, and a wafer thermostat with switch. This can be obtained from any reptile/poultry supply company. Temp control is regulated to within 2 degrees, so I st mine to regulate at 95 degrees. I use a cooking thermometer, (one used to measure meat temp) and stuck it in the rear corner.
Humidity control is achieved by a jar of water, with a sponge in it. This is important because light bulbs produce a dry heat.
When due date arrives, (I plan on one day before I think they will emerge), I put on the cages, with one drop of honey on the bottom. Don't use for, or the queen can get stuck. If you don't put the honey on the bottom, you run the risk of the queen going back into the cell, and getting stuck. Queens want to eat when they emerge. Virgins, will feed themselves early on, so there is no need to have workers in the picture.
By hatching out in an incubator, queens are unscented, and easily introduced into a mating nuc. I have done this sucessfully for 3 years now, and plan on doing it a 4th!
I have never had more than 30 cells in it, but it works very well, and since it is in my basement, I can check them before I go to work.
My daughter can even check on them.
One more note, you need to be very careful about handling fresh capped queen cells. It can be done successfully with a little care. I move the cells about 300 yards without any problems.
My incubator measures 18 inches long, 8 inches wide, and 16 inches high.
18 inches long, was selected, because I made cell bars, that are 17 inches long, and slide into dado cuts of the side bars of my cell frame. I made 2 bars to a frame. 18 inches is how it turned out. The key thing is, getting the removable bars to fit inside the incubator. I used Mann Lake cell cup base holders, cell cup bases, and cell cages. Brushy Mountain sold something along the same line if I recall.
I chose 8 inches wide, because I can easily fit 6 bars into the incubator, meaning I can put 60 cells in with ease.
16 inches high. This will depend on the light socket height. With the light bulbs installed mine are about 5 inches high. I allowed 4 inches from the bottom of the cell to the top of the light. Add the cell cage length, 3 inches give or take, and what ever is left on the top, for easier manipulation. Doing the math its 4 inches. My top cover has the inside dimensions of the box mounted to the bottom of it, so it fills the box, for better insulation. I used a 3/4 inch piece for that. So part of the top cover fits inside the box.
I mounted cell bar rails on the sides, to support the cell bars. Next, you don't want stagnant air inside, so I added a 12 volt computer fan, to circulate air. To achieve circulation, a duct was made on the upper edge of the incubator, under the top cover insert, and channeled down to the fan bottom. Since the fan blows up, you get a constant turnover of air.
I was fortunate to have an electronics background, so I mounted a computer power supply to the bottom, to run the fan. Any 12 volt power source will work.
I also mounted a deflection guide at a 45 to 60 degree angle to deflect the airflow, opposite of the duct intakes. I say 45 to 60, because it was mounted to fit!
Heat and control. I used 2 60 watt light bulbs, and a wafer thermostat with switch. This can be obtained from any reptile/poultry supply company. Temp control is regulated to within 2 degrees, so I st mine to regulate at 95 degrees. I use a cooking thermometer, (one used to measure meat temp) and stuck it in the rear corner.
Humidity control is achieved by a jar of water, with a sponge in it. This is important because light bulbs produce a dry heat.
When due date arrives, (I plan on one day before I think they will emerge), I put on the cages, with one drop of honey on the bottom. Don't use for, or the queen can get stuck. If you don't put the honey on the bottom, you run the risk of the queen going back into the cell, and getting stuck. Queens want to eat when they emerge. Virgins, will feed themselves early on, so there is no need to have workers in the picture.
By hatching out in an incubator, queens are unscented, and easily introduced into a mating nuc. I have done this sucessfully for 3 years now, and plan on doing it a 4th!
I have never had more than 30 cells in it, but it works very well, and since it is in my basement, I can check them before I go to work.
My daughter can even check on them.
One more note, you need to be very careful about handling fresh capped queen cells. It can be done successfully with a little care. I move the cells about 300 yards without any problems.