Define "scorch"

[BjornBee]

I have some used equipent. The frames are being burned. The boxes are going to be used but this stuff has sat in a garage for about 20 years but the wood looks like it was milled last year. As time permits I'm going to scorch the insides. In using a propane torch, the following happens.

Wax residue melts
Propolis melts
Propoils bubbles
Wax and propolis burn
Wood turns brown/black, not grain though.
All wood including grain turns black
Wood surface turn red and flares up till you remove heat source.

Question. From those who have done this SUCCESSFUllY in the past, at what point do you feel comfortable that the scorching for AFB has been achieved?
Thank you.

[dickm]

I have the same question and am considering painting the inside after scorching. I didn't feel an ordinary blowtorch did a good enough job so I rented a weed-burner. It's essentially a big torch that goes on a grill size bottle of propane. Is that what you do. Any ideas on the paint scenario? In conversation with the top state bee guy in Md, he reminded me that 98% of the infection is in the frames. (I called him because his state and ND provide Ethlene Oxide gas to beekeepers to fumigate the boxes. I gather it won't work on comb. definitely not on sealed comb.) Have you looked into radiation?

Dick Marron

[This message has been edited by dickm (edited December 07, 2003).]

[Michael Bush]

I think radiation and the fumigation that some states provide is the only sure thing. ABC XYZ of beekeeping had detailed instructions, but basicly they involve stacking the boxes on a board that seals the bottom. Dousing with gasoline. Adding some crumpled paper to the middle and throw in something to light it (don't be by it when it lights) After the fire burns down a bit you throw a telescopic cover on to smother the fire. The pictures in ABC XYZ show the supers afterward and they do NOT look charred, so I don't think they burn them until the wood catches on fire. Probably just burns off the wax and propolis. I have not heard of using a torch to do the job.

[Robert Brenchley]

A torch is standard in the UK; the normal advice is to scorch the wood brown but not black, so there's no need to actually set it on fire.

------------------
Regards,

Robert Brenchley

RSBrenchley@aol.com
Birmingham UK

[BjornBee]

Dickm,
You mentioned renting the torch. Have you found anything like what your using for sale anywhere? I'm thinking homedepot, or elsewhere? If there was a faster way, I'll pay the money. I'm using a normal plumbers propane torch, and it would help to cut the time factor down.
I also thought of painting the inside but decided against. Its a numbers game. They need to feed each cell about 50 spores for the desease to set. I'm thinking that they won't lick the side and feed that many spores after torching. Hopefully they will not like the burnt smell and will use propolis to cover it.

I keep hearing about radiation, etc. In Pa. we dont have anything like that. And I'm not loading and hauling, then paying for another states service. I think what they offer is good. Just not handy for me.

[fat/beeman]

I had to respond to burning inside of hives because of afbor efb. I invested to much money in bees to try save a dollar and loose whole bee yards.
write it off and burn whole hives you will thank yourself latter.
been there done that.experence is always best teacher
Don

[BjornBee]

fat/beeman,
I have burned an entire hive (one that was bought as a hive with afb) due to AFB. The discussion is not based on hives with AFB. It is based on used equipment that although looks fine, the history is not known. Burning of the frames, and scorching of the boxes seems rational to me. I have built alot of my operation on used equipment and keeping cost down. When you say about "saving a dollar", I also know that if I do have to burn a hive, it will "cost" me alot less than buying or building everything new.

Burning/scorching is for precationary measures and I also assume and know most beekeepers buy or have acquired used equipment. I'm no different. Some just don't admit it. But you can do things correctly and use good judgement. I have not to this point have AFB due to used and cleaned equipment.
If I was to find another hive infected, then I would burn that too.

Some things like isolating supers, so each super goes back to the same apiary, just does not get done. Even though highly recommended. I actually stack all my supers together in my garage. Next spring they go as needed. Buying used equipment to me is no different. Use common sense, know what your looking for, and deal with it correctly.

[This message has been edited by BjornBee (edited December 08, 2003).]

[dickm]

Bjornbee,
Try harborfreight.com for the torch. I just ordered one.
FatBeeman,
Have you burned some boxes and had them break out with AFB?
I got the disease from some nucs I bought. I found a few cells at the end of the season. You may be right about not saving box money but it seems to be the common approach. Incidently, 2 of those nucs were requeened with russian queens. Has any one heard of it being spread this way?

Dick Marron

[Iowabeeman]

Scorching with a torch is a little tedious for my taste. It's okay if you are not doing very many but pretty time consuming otherwise. We paint the iside of the boxes with diesel fuel and then throw in a burning piece of newspaper. When the boxes are scorched, throw a lid on the stack to smother the fire. The inside of the boxes will be black but the bees don't seem to care. You have to do this a couple of times to get the hang of how long to burn them. We turn the boxes upside down so the melting propolys won't accumulate on the rabbits.