Package Bees 2# vs 3#

[Sundance]

This spring will be my first purchase of
package bees.

My intention is not for honey production
but rather increase and a nice strong
colony going into winter.

What can I expect regarding 2# vs #3????

They will be NWC's and/or Minn Hygenics

[jean-marc]

You should be able to get honey out of them the first year in your area. If you do not want honey, then I would think that you should be able to split a 2 pound package 6-8 weeks after hiving and build them up for winter. Good luck.

Jean-Marc

[iddee]

50% more bees. tongue.gif tongue.gif tongue.gif :D

I would compare it to a 2 frame and 5 frame nuc.
2 lbs. is fine for fla. or tex., but I think you are a bit north for the small starts. Just my opinion, nothing scientific.

[BjornBee]

For the cost difference, I would always go with the 3 lb.

[drobbins]

>For the cost difference, I would always go with the 3 lb.

especially if it increases the chance you can split it the first year

Dave

[JohnK and Sheri]

For years and years we got 2# packages the first/second week of April, sometimes with 6in of snow on the ground. Installed on drawn comb they always made a good honey crop up here in Central Wisconsin. There are many folks we know in this area who buy 2# packages every year specifically for honey production. Not sure of the flow in your area.
Sheri

[Mike Gillmore]

My first 2 packages were 3# Minn Hygenics and they built up very quickly. If you are going to put in frames of capped brood to help them out then I would think that the 2# will work out fine for you. If not, then go with the 3# packages.

[Sundance]

They will all be put onto Honey Super Cell
fully drawn foundation.

We usually have a great flow here if the
drought abates!! The idea of splitting is
important as well. I will be making my
first run to California next season and
hope to have 200 to 250 colonies. (small
potatoes I know). ;)

[Mike Gillmore]

"200 to 250 colonies. (small
potatoes I know)."

It's all relative... those are pretty big potatoes to me!! smile.gif

[jlyon]

JohnK and Sheri apparently did similar to what we did for years here in SD. 2# packages work but you need good build up conditions and preferably a nice big overwintered hive to donate a frame or two of brood a couple weeks after installation. With mite problems now days I really don't believe that one should be thinking two years out because there is no guarantee they will be strong enough to make it through a winter. My advice would be to get the 3#, get it in early, treat it well and go for a honey crop.

[loggermike]

I shake my own bulk bees out for nucs and while they arent weighed, there is a point where they just slowly build up compared to the ones with more bees that really take off and make a crop or can be split later.So at least in this area, the more bees at the start the better.I would get the 3 pounders with a good strain of Italian queen for almond pollination.And I would give them a gallon of fumidil syrup at hiving.

[tecumseh]

I believe the question of 2 vs 3 pound packages is quite dependent on the even-ness of the honey flow. If you though you needed a bit larger field force early then 3 pounds would seem to be the way to go. if you had long but steady flow then 2 pounds would likely be adequate. along the northern edge of this country years back folks most typically chose 2 pound packages... some of these same folks would tell you that a 3 pound package would brood up too heavy too early and exhaust their feed resources.

[Sundance]

That makes sense tecumseh, our flow comes
later than most.

"With mite problems now days I really don't believe that one should be thinking two years out because there is no guarantee they will be strong enough to make it through a winter."

jlyon....... I was probably not too clear. The
packages that I get in April/May will be in
California in less than 10 months. Not a 2 year
deal.

[Nick Noyes]

We dumped in 500 2lb. packages in april of this year and they made a honey crop even with the ND drought. We start them in ID and feed them a lot. It all depends on location and weather but don't let them get light.

[Madison68]

This past April I bought a 3# package got it in late April From TN. Glad I got the 3# because I lost a third of the bee's during transit. The 3# can give you a buffer zone if things don't go well with shipping. Good luck with your endeavor Sundance! Madison...

[jlyon]

Sorry I realized that after I posted, I just remembered you saying you wanted a good colony going into winter and I assumed you meant in ND. Good luck in California and I do believe that thinking has changed with the pollination angle. For years I said to combine before the honeyflow because next year may never come for that particular hive. In the past few years we make up "summer nucs" in June when we have left over queens coming out of Texas. They are usually just 3 or 4 combs that we skim off the big ones with the idea that we don't really expect to get a honey crop just a good hive by the end of summer. It is really surprising how often they end up making a nice little crop late in the summer. Anyway good luck with whatever you choose.

[Michael Bush]

When getting them though the mail I lose enough I think the 3# are worth the extra cost. When picking them up or getting them off a truck where the losses are smaller, I think the 2# do just about as well.

[JohnK and Sheri]

Bruce
>>It is really surprising how often they end up making a nice little crop late in the summer<<
VERY true. I think you will have trouble keeping a package, even a 2# package, small enough to NOT make a honey crop....unless you split them, then you need to get them big enough for California. It takes a lot of management. If you don't put supers on them they will most likely hit the bushes. If this sounds like the voice of experience, it is, lol?
Sheri

[jean-marc]

Bruce:

I would be tempted to save the money from packages and spend it on feed. 3 frames of bees on june 1 will go to 20 frames by sept 1. They can build there own cells and still have time. Feed heavily during the summer. 1 hive can be split into 6 by june 1. After mating you'll have 4 and should still have 3 by september. But they'll have young queens so you should still have 2.7 by almonds. You'll lose them to travel. maybe more but kinda my experience. Spend the cash on feed. I'd feed once every 7-10 days. Just thought I'd throw the idea out to you.

Jean-Marc

[Sundance]

Interesting........ Thanks Jean-Marc.
I had intended to split off 50 to 75
in addition to the packages. I do see
your logic and it makes sense.

[jean-marc]

The advantage of splitting later is due to increase of teperature. As temperatures increase bees make larger patches of brood. I'm always suprised at how fast 3 frames of bees grow in July in our area. I've seen it so many times and yet I still like to make the increases sooner. There's no point if you are trying to get bees and not honey. I just keep patties on them and fill the feeders often. They grow quickly at that time of year. In my area by mid-july our honey flow is over, so is pollination. The value of bees is low and it is a good tike of year to make increases. Temperatures are high, well about as good as they get in our area. Good doubles split 3 ways(laying queens) will be doubles again 6 later. These increases are always the best honey producing units the following season.

Jean-Marc