Hive top feeders and ventilation?

[Mabe]

Last week I switched from buckets to polystyrene hive top feeders because they hold a lot moreand they provide some degree of insulation. They are Beemax feeders with a horizontal slot on one end that spans all 10 frames. I'm interested to hear whether anyone can suggest the configuration of feeder, inner covers, shims, or whatever that insure that there is adaquate ventilation but no drowned bees.

Right now I have the feeders sitting on the top deep with only a telescoping top covering it. The only thing I can think of is to put a screened inner cover between the feeder and the top. Any input is appreciated.

Mabe

[GDH]

I glued paint mixers (flat wooden sticks) to the inside cover. Unfortunately, then I had problems with yellow jackets. Finally, stapled nylon screen around the feeder to stop the YJs.

[romduck]

I have a similar problem after a bear got into my two hives. Stores are depleted and I'm using syrup to buid them back up but with the cold (30 deg F) nights now I'm losing alot of bees in the hive top feeder.

I was thinking of making a hard candy food for them since that sounds less messy than pouring cane sugar into empty cells.

[George Fergusson]

I was concerned about ventilation with my feeders so when necessary, I prop the feeder up with a 1/16" thick stick. A lot of my hives have enough cracks so I don't worry about it smile.gif

George-

[SGebauer]

Hello,

There is George's method, which allows the ventilation, but is too small a gap to allow other bees in to rob. Some other options, replace the plexiglass divider with a #8 hardware cloth. This prevents the bees from drowning in the bulk reservior but allows the hive to vent into the feeder itself. Or, once the syrup or sugar water has granulated, take the divider out all together.

Romduck, are your bees drowning in the feeder? If so are they behind the plexi or in the reserior?

Cheers,
Shane

[romduck]

Shane,

They're drowning in the reservoir. I have to take the screen off to clean the little buggers out. Any thoughts?

Little floaties?

I assume that they're getting cold when they're taking in too much cold syrup.

[SGebauer]

Hi Romduck,

If they are drowning in the reservior and not behind the plexi divider, they are entering the feeder from the outside. Check to make sure the cover is not warped creating a gap for bees to enter. An old towel drape over the hive and under the cover should solve the problem.

If they are behind the plexi, try scraping the plexi a bit give it more texture, thus making it easier for them to get a grip. Also, your floaties idea will work. Try small pieces of burr comb as floaties.

Shane

[Mabe]

I called Dadant (who sold me the feeders last year). The plexi is manufactured by someone other than Beemax (they didn't volunteer the info as to who made them). They did suggest though, that to avoid the drowning problem they were going to possibly start offering the feeder with a 1/8" dowel rod dropped into the feeding crevise to support the bees on the liquid. I had dealt with that particular although minimal problem by cutting a piece of screen and looping it over the entrance and into the feeding crevice. It cut down immensly on drownings.

For the ventilation solution (I hope), I think I will combine the shims on the top of the feeder with the hardware cloth plexi replacement idea. All great ideas, thanks! Now if I could just figure out how to add an upper entrance......

ps....my cat got it's leg blown off by an idiot hunter today. Don't know who the idiot was, but my sweet Claude is recovering at the vets and is now an amputee. Just a note so you'all will take care this hunting season.

Mabe

[notaclue]

Sounds like the same kind I recieved with my beginners kit from Better Bee (also Beemax). They could be imported from Canada as is were the hive boxes that also came with the kit. Don't know, but have never had drownings except ants. I was thinking about drilling a few small holes, angled to keep rain out, enough to vent but not drafty with wind.

I'm toying with a 1/8" and a 1/4" spacing/ventilating/upper entrance divider. to be used above the brood chamber but below the top super. May work, I don't know.

Also been targeted before and safety is paramount. Alcohol and firearms and archery are totally forbidden around me and my family.

We're sorry to hear about Claude. Hope it all works out. Hope the slobs (not hunters) mess up and get caught. They are one of the reasons the rest of us are slammed and always under attack. Not a cat person but have two and a Chesapeake Bay Retriever.

[Pat Brady]

I use glass jars with holes in the led turned upside down on top of the inter cover, siting on two 1/4" sticks, than I set a deep on top of this and add a douple screen with a 1/2" stick under the front of the outer cover. Nothing can get in or out at the top (robing bees), yet I have good ventilation. Works good

[guatebee]

Here are some pictures of a top feeding tray that has a ventilation port on one end. The opening is covered with screen to prevent robbing.
The tray´s rim is only 1 3/4" high, so it is not really intended for direct pouring of syrup. Instead, baggies are filled and placed flat. Thin plastivc bags work great, for bees puncture them and suck the syrup out without making a big mess. Tray is divided in two by a center slot through which a quick look tells about population in the chamber directly underneath.

This tray is quite helpful when it comes to removing burr comb or propolis and the bucket is missing!!
http://photobucket.com/albums/a389/guatebee
As far as ventilation, some hives shown in the pictures clearly represent what typical Guatemalan beekeeping is like: nylon covers on the hives to prevent water from going in and brood from chilling...in tropical weather. Take a look. I´d appreciate your comments.

[Alex Cantacuzene]

Hi guatebee, you are doing a fine job with your set-up. I am keeping our bees as a hobby only and also have access to different materials etc. but your yard looks great. Do you have any difficulties with ants or other insects getting into your hives? I did and then I put my hives on pipe-stands (from scrap metal), which allows me to put a sticky tape around the post and that prevents the insects. On your TBH will you have a removable roof? Take care and have fun.

[guatebee]

Alex: I currently have no bees at all!! The pictures posted are from yards I visit during field trips. I work for the ministry of agriculture supervising beekeeping projects.
The top bar hive was a quick, 4 hour job I did at a cooperative. Yes, it is supposed to have a removable roof, maybe some old boards thrown over it. Next saturday I´ll visit this cooperativa again and hopefully they will have put bees in it; I´ll post new pictures then.

Ants are a problem here; whta most beekeepers do is track them back to their nest and burn it.

[guatebee]

Down here in Guatemala it is the begining of the crop season. Rain is gone and blue sky and bloom are everywhere.
I have been promoting the use of SBB and hive top ventilation boards (which stay on all year and serve as feeders in winter).
Photos of both items as I have built them on:

http://photobucket.com/albums/a389/guatebee

Our winters are warm but very wet, so bees remain active and consume about 50 lbs of sugar in a season.
Here´s my conclusions and marketing hints:
1. Advantages of SBB:
* helps bees to better regulate inside temperature and humidity
* no moisture or debris build-up on bottom
* falling varroa mites go through the screen and die outside
* moving hives with SBB drastically reduces brood nest overheating
* in tropical Guatemala, it is never too cold so Sbbs stay on year around without need of closing boards
* bees will naturally set up a defensive behaviour to bugs intruding through the screen
* allows thorough preventive smoking before opening nasty colonies
* simple and low budget construction
* Sbbs will not warp or deform due to moisture
* bees do not tend to propolize the screen

2. Advantages of top ventilator/feeder board:
* works as an inner cover in terms of insulation from direct sun or heat loss
* keeps even bee space above top bars, allowing for bee traffic
* easy to pry off; hive tool levering will not force joints or damage board
* feeder board allows for about 1 gal syrup if using bags; allows for "dry" feed such as candy or pollen patties; paraffin coating on tray prevents rotting
* excessive heat and moisture-ladden air goes up through center slot and out the ventilation port
* center slot allows for quick population and early whitening assesment
* board stays on hive year around
* in combination with SBB, the upper ventilation board further reduces the risk of nest overheating when moving hives
* checking or replenishing feed requires very little smoke if any, and the brood nest is not exposed therefore keeping inside weather conditions undisturbed
* during routine management, feeder trays serves as temporary storage space for burr comb and propolis, reducing robbing (ever forgot the scrap bucket?)
* bees rarely build comb inside tray
* no need to remove or alter comb spacing for internal feeders
* bees have full and easy access to feeder board; they keep it free of pests such as ants, roaches, scorpions and the like.

Hope you find this to be a comprehensive summary.

[guatebee]

I just uploaded some new pictures that show the feeder board and SBB refered to in my previous post.

http://photobucket.com/albums/a389/guatebee