Hiving our First Package this year

[ainsof]

Hi folks,

Okay... (sigh)

It seems as though there are a number of different ways beekeepers hive a package. Can anyone recommend a basic step-by-step process for the total beginner?

Perhaps a good starter book as well?

[SilverFox]

Assuming you have a 10 frame hive, after removing the feed can (you will no longer need it)1; place the queen cage between the center frames 2;Remove the outer four frames of your hive, either side 3;shake some bees over the queen 4;place the box and remaining bee in the space left by the removed frames, cover the hive, with two days the bees left in the shipping container should all be out, if not gently shake them into your hive, replace the four frames you removed and cover.
When i bought packages this is the way that I did it.
Listen to what others say and use the way that is the most comfortable for you.
Remember what works for one person may not work for another.

[Todd Zeiner]

Sorry I don't have a step by step procedure but I can add my thoughts.

It is an overwhelming experience for the first time. When you gently pour them out of the package, they tend to fly and relieve themselves(be prepared for brown spots on that new beesuit)

The ones that are flying will, within 10 min. settle into the hive and get to work.

I usually sit an empty hive body or super on top of the hive to act like a funnel. I also gently spray them with 1:1 sugar water befor I dump them. It reduces the amount of bees flying. I have done it without spraying too. Don't forget to remove the cork from the candy end of the queen cage. I usually poke a small nail into the candy to speed the progress of the queen laying.

Like you said, there are many ways to do it. Most of them will work fine.

[peggjam]

When you get home with your package bees, spray librally with sugar water, set them in a dark, cool area. Relax, deep breaths, LOL. Don't attempt to hive a package if you are totally freaked out, take the time to relax, and don't rush it. Don't try to hive them in the dark.
When your relaxed and ready:
1)Spray them liberally with sugarwater again.
2)Pry off the cover. Locate the wire that holds the queen cage. Sometimes, depending on the cage, you can remove the queen cage without removing the feeder can, sometimes you will have to remove the can to retrieve the queen cage. If you can remove the queen cage without removing the can, do so, and set it off to the side. Replace the cover you pried off.
3)If you can't get the queen cage out without removing the can: replace the cover and give the package a sharp thump on the ground, this will dislodge the bees from the can, and you should be able to see the queen cage, pry up the can, remove the queen, and replace the cover. Spray them with more sugar water.
4)wedge the cage between two frames candy end down(at this point it would be helpful to know how long the packages have been made. If it is more than 24 hours, it would be safe to remove the cork from the candy end of the cage, and maybe poke a small hole to encourage the bees to release the queen. If it has been less than 24 hours, wait until the next day to remove the cork.) Thump the cage again to dislodge the bees, and pour over the top of the queen. Depending on the weather, you can either leave the cage in the hive and let them come out on their own, which they will do if it is warm, or continue to thump the cage and pour them out, if it is cold you will need to do this.
5)Put on a feeder, another hive body and cover.

That's about all there is to it.

[ScadsOBees]

Would before hiving a package be a good time to spray with sucrocide, just to do a killing of a few extra mites?

[Brent Bean]

All the recommendations so far are very good, I usually use the same method as Peggjam, but have used Silverfox’s method when it was very cold and have good luck. With packages since the bees have been captive with the queen for a couple of days I pull the cork opposite the candy and stuff a marshmallow in it, they will release her in about 24 hours and things can start cooking sooner.
Make sure you feed your bees if you are starting them on new foundation they won’t have any stores to survive on. I also give them a pollen patty. I keep feeding them until they stop taking syrup the wax makers need the food to draw out wax. After you install your first package you will say that was easy! The bees are in such a state of confusion that they will be very docile. So don’t worry about stings, I never wear gloves when I install packages and the only time I get stung is if I trap a bee between the box and my hand.
After you dump most of the bees into the empty portion of the super gently push them out of the big pile they will be in so when you add frames back into the box you don’t crush them.
Leave them alone for at least four day, then lightly smoke them and check to see that the queen is released, she should be, if not release her, add the tenth frame back in and leave them alone for a week. If you disturb them to much they might blame the queen for it and kill her. After she is laying this won’t be a problem.
A good book for a beginner is “ Beekeeping for Dummies” it also has a step by step picture instruction for installing packages, and is divided up by season. If this is your first year you will have a steep learning curve, but by the middle of the season you will start feeling at home with the girls. Enjoy! smile.gif

[power napper]

ainsof--with all the above excellent methods of advice you should have no trouble. Just expect the first time jitters--heart racing, voice may be one octave higher than norman but when you complete the task don't forget to pat yourself on the back. You will be amazed at how well it went.

[Michael Bush]

I'd do a powdered sugar shake if you want to get some varroa off.

To install a package of bees in a regular hive feed them so they are calm and not taking sugar syrup by either spraying on the side or brushing syrup on the side of the package until the bees stop licking it off. If the weather is really bad, put the bees somewhere in the house that isn’t drafty, feed them with the syrup on the side of the box and wait until the next day. If it looks like the weather is going to be bad for several days, you may have to just do it anyway. When you are ready to install them have your hive where you want it to stay. One box on the hive will do for starters, wait until they have filled that before adding more boxes. Open the lid to the package and pull out the queen cage. Put the lid back on. Pull the cork out of the candy end (if there is one) or put a miniature marshmallow in the hole after you pull the cork out (if there isn’t a candy in it) and wedge the queen cage with the screen facing down between the center frames in the hive. If it won’t fit, you may need to remove a frame. Open the lid and pull out the feed can and put the lid back on. There are now some bees in the air that were on the can. Keeping the box right side up (lid on top) strike it on the ground hard enough to dislodge the bees hanging in a cluster in the box. Now remove the lid, turn it upside down and shake the bees into the box with the queen. After you’re not getting many bees anymore, hit it again on the ground to get the bees dislodges and shake them out again. Repeat until there are only a hundred or less bees left in the box and put the box on the ground in front of the hive with the opening facing the entrance of the hive. After the bees have settled in enough that you can close the cover, put the cover on the hive. Always move slowly and gently to let the smart bees move and not get squished. Some are not smart and will never move out of the way, but you should give them the opportunity. Now that you have the lid on, leave them alone for a week or two.

[LEAD PIPE]

Nothing like seeing it done. The club I belong to has demonstrations in the spring. If you have a club near you I would call and find out. If not, this video has a step by step hiving demonstration in it.

http://www.bee-commerce.com/search_results.asp?txtsearchParamTxt=&txtsearchParamCat=6&txtsearchParamType=ALL&txtsearchParamMan=ALL&txtsearchParamVen=ALL&txtFromSearch=fromSearch&iL evel=1 (http://www.bee-commerce.com/search_results.asp?txtsearchParamTxt=&txtsearchParamCat=6&txtsearchParamType=ALL&txtsearchParamMan=ALL&txtsearchParamVen=ALL&txtFromSearch=fromSearch&iLevel=1)

[ONG]

I am planning on placing 3 packages into 3 different hives all withing a 12' area. Am I asking for trouble if I do them all at the same time?

[Brent Bean]

This will not be a problem, the sooner you can get them out of the shipping package and into a new home where they can fly and do the things that the good Lord made them for the BETTER.

[honeyman46408]

LOOK AT THE MARCH 2006 "Bee Culture" page 25

[Hillside]

Some other hints.

If it's cold
1. protect the queen.
2. shake as many bees into the hive as you can -- leaving them in the cage in front of the hive will only result in them freezing.

Not all queen cages have candy in them. I mix up a little powdered sugar with a few drops of water to have some "frosting" to seal her off.

If the queen cage doesn't have candy in it, put your thumb over the hole as soon as you pull out the plug so she doesn't get out too early.

A needle nose pliers is a must to remove the plug from the queen cage.

Have everything ready before you start. Wandering off to hunt stuff up when only half done is a potential problem.

Stay calm. It's all going to be just fine.

[nhbloke]

Tagging along for the advice, and as a total novice i can recommend the beekeeping for dummies book, i was given it by the club i joined at the start of bee school and have read it cover to cover a few times, now if only i can force that info into my thick scull i would be all set. smile.gif

[DChap]

If the queen cage does not have a candy plug under the cork a minature marshmallow works well.

Blessed bee
Doug

[Tom Chaudoir]

An old timer in our local club says to put the queen cage in with the candy side up. If some of her attendant workers flame out inside the cage, their dead bodies won't block the hole.

The March issue of Bee culture has an article that also uses the candy up orientation. It says to put a heavy rubber band around a frame so that the rubber band is vertical at the center. The cage gets tucked under that. I imagine that the reason is the same.

My first packages are coming soon, and I'll be watching this thread with interest. Thanks!

P.S.
Most instructions say to check in a week or 2 and make sure the queen is laying. What if she's not? By the time I get a replacement in the mail, isn't it going to be pretty ugly in there?

[ March 08, 2006, 09:17 PM: Message edited by: Tom Chaudoir ]

[Jim Fischer]

There is NO REASON to leave the queen in the
cage when she has spent several days in a
package. Just release her directly into the
hive after shaking some or all of the package
into the hive.

Sure, you need to remove attendants and insert
the queen in the cage to give the colony time
to get used to the queen and "release" her when
requeening, but when the queen comes with
a package, there is no need for such
nonsense.

[Darrel Wright]

I agree with Jim on the direct release of the queen. I think inside the package they are all so close to her that they get aclimated pretty quick. I think I'd intentionally let the package sit for two days (if it had just been made) before installing so I could direct release, because I'd rather be sure about the queen and not have to go back to remove the cage than have an extra 24 hours of wax-drawing/queen freeing.

The suggestions on procedure all seem good. One note. If you spill some bees out on the ground during this process, many will not fly back up (they can't neccessarily fly) but will instead start crawling and will go up the first thing they hit. That first thing is as bound to be your leg as anything. When they get up under your cuff, they are pretty likely to sting from being trapped and confused, and ankle stings suck. So tuck your pants into your socks.

Installing is kind of intimidating, but be assured it really is one of the easiest processes there is in beekeeping aside from eating honey--you don't even have to move slowly as they just aren't defensive in this state. Nothing to worry about even though it looks bad. Just sugar them up well in the cage.

[ March 09, 2006, 09:04 AM: Message edited by: Darrel Wright ]

[PaulR]

Ditto what Jim Fischer said. Keep 'em cool, spray 'em down with some syrup, install in the very late afternoon.

[Hillside]

I expect Jim is absolutely correct about immediately releasing the queen, but I've always restricted the queen when installing packages. I'm an old dog and his method is a new trick for me.

I actually believe old dogs can learn new tricks, but they'll grumble, whine, and act stupid the whole time they're learning.

[Brent Bean]

I agree with Hillside, granted the bees have been in transit for a few days but all the bumping around who knows how they will treat Mother if you direct release her. I do pull the cork on the opposite side of the candy and shove a marshmallow in. They will release her in about 24 hours and things can get to normal a little faster. I usually take a quick peek at day four to see if her royal Majesty is out of the box. If you are starting your bees on new foundation remember to keep feeding them until a good nectar flow is on. And don’t forget the pollen patties they will need it to raise brood.