View Full Version : Hive stands
What is the best stand for a hive. I have 2 sitting on concrete blocks. What does everyone else use?
08-02-2002, 01:53 PM
I just set mine on the wood pallets that companies just give away. They last for years and are free and keep the hives off the ground. I can fit 4 hives spaced apart on them.
08-02-2002, 07:20 PM
Because of fire ants in this area, I don't use wood pallets. I presently have my hives sitting on cinder blocks about 16 inches above ground, but I have recently built stands out of treated wood that the hives are going on soon. The wood was "seasoned" (old, in other words), so I painted them as extra protection against the elements. By using stands with 4 small legs, I figure it will be easier to keep ants out than dealing with a base of cinder blocks.
08-02-2002, 10:07 PM
Due to problems with argentine ants attacking nucs, my latest stand is two cinder blocks, capped with plywood, sitting in a 4" tall tub of water, made out of the end of a 55 gallon barrel.
08-03-2002, 05:58 AM
I build stands out of treated wood, so the hives are 16in. off the ground.
Biggest problem I have is there is no flat ground. To sit the hives on blocks I had to dig to level them. I had thoughts of setting posts in the ground and building a rack out of pressure treated wood.
If you have the time and desire, you may scribe the legs to fit your terrain. Start by making the legs longer than you need. Place the hive stand in its desired location. Using a level, starting from the lowest point of your terrain, mark a level line from leg to leg all the way around. Now cut this line with a handsaw, circular saw, or a cordless circular saw (very handy). All four legs must be touching the ground. Otherwise, you will have to measure up the largest distance the offending leg is off the ground then transfer this measure to the starting point. Sounds complicated. It isn't. Once you get the hang of it. Try it around the workshop first. Then, take it to the field.
I made an error in the above post. You must start at the highest point and the hive stand must sit parallel with the slope. After the cuts are made simply rotate the stand 180 degrees.
I use old discarded corragated barn roofing with concrete blocks placed on the tin. The tin helps to keep the vegatation down. Also an old time Organic BEEKEEPER told me today that the way to control ANTS is sprinkle granulated soap around the hive. Cheap and NonPoluting. Have Fun. Dale
08-03-2002, 06:45 PM
Something else that helps keep ants out is to sprinkle around the hive stands with cinnamon. I just buy the cheap stuff at the dollar store (2 for a dollar). It works great until it is washed away by the rain, but that's not often in this area from July until September (and usually later). Odfrank- I have thought about using a water barrier, but have heard that the bees will go down to the water and drown. Have you had any problems with this?
08-03-2002, 09:19 PM
Everone here keeps on talking about ants. Are they a real problem with your hives? At one time, I couldn't stant seeing one on my hives. Now that the SHB has come through our area I'm more than willing to let the ants have some of my honey in return for keeping the SHB population down. I haven't seen a real problem with what the ants are doing. If they start to take over, then that's another story all together. What are your thoughts on this?
08-03-2002, 10:20 PM
Dragonfly, I cut a piece of plywood slightly wider that the barrel. The bees can't fall or fly in to it easily. I see few drowned ones. If they get, in they can climb up on the blocks.
Argentine ants love brood, and attack the nucs I make when I buy queens. They don't bother the large glued tight hives too much.
08-05-2002, 10:56 AM
Regarding ants- the usual run of the mill piss ant or sugar ant does not appear to pose any threat, but fire ants love protein sources and bees and their brood are good food sources for them. I know of a 5 frame nuc of bees that was decimated by fire ants in three days (not mine, fortunately).