From: "deelusbybeekeeper" <deelusbybeekeeper@excelonline.com>
Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 08:43:39 -0700
To: <BiologicalBeekeeping@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: Regression Questions

Hi to all on Biological Beekeeping

Scott Wrote:

> one problem that I have is that I have 7 viable colonies, 4
> of which are my 49er experimental colonies. So, since you have
> suggested to give the brood to "beef up" the strength of another
> colony, I am perplexed as to where to put these bees. i.e. everyone
> is doing well and building up rapidly and I don't have enough
> equipment to take the path you've suggested. (looks like plywood and
> finishing nails ahead)<wink>

Reply:

This is one of the problems in changing gears. For awhile you will have bees
on two systems. ONe enlarged artificial and one regressing. While you get
the combs and new 4.9ers established, you will be beefing up the enlarged
colonies and or adding numbers here as splits/divides become necessary for
awhile. While many beekeepers have extra equipment to work with, having
suffered losses to do this with, you do not seem to be in that category.
Consequently I would say from your wink above, you might be hitting your
thumb from time to time. :>)

> My original plan was to shake each of the 49ers down into another hive
> body that contains 49er starter strips. This being accomplished once
> the bees have gone through two brood cycles in their original single
> story configuration. I'm a little confused now because I
> thought the objective was to obtain the right sized comb, even if this
> means the bees might not make it through the winter. (but, I'd rather
> they do).

Reply:

Yes the objective is to obtain the right sized comb even if it means the
bees might not make it through the winter, but you might be suprised at how
many will make it through if started early enough and get the combs drawnout
right!

Also, I am very hesitant to just destroy good brood.
> I couldn't envision at what point to cull the original comb because
> new brood is emerging all of the time. Suggestions anyone?

Reply:

The only logical thing to do is to feed the brood back to the enlarged
colonies. In the beginning you are feeding oversized combs back the same
size they are on, for that is all you have.

Then after first regression, which will be smaller, even if not drawn
properly to 4.9mm, you can start feeding back these somewhat smaller combs
into the enlarged colonies also, as you regress further with your 49ers. I
would mark the combs though so you know which is which. Then Keep working
the enlarged combs up and out while extracting and melt down.

Basicially what you are doing is shifting combs in waves. But as the combs
shift, the downsized combs, culled from the 49ers, will help you get a run
on regressing the other enlarged colonies you have, so by the time you get
ready to shake them/regress them down too, they are already started in
sizing down quite a bit to make their conversion faster.

After you get though your first season with 4.9 combs drawn right,you will
be able to take 2-3 empty frames in the spring, after stores are eaten out,
or even half drawn out whole frames of new foundation, from your 49ers on a
continuing basis,during the active season, and shake other enlarged
bees(swarms/colonies) onto them for an instant place for the queen to lay
in, to immediately size down the new broodnest, to convert enlarged colonies
over.

It's basically a lack of drawn combs and drawing out, phasing in, and how to
rotate them, while saving bees to make honey and pollen, beekeepers have to
consider for management.It has to be done logically and orderly, and yet
keep the two set-ups seperate until you can eliminate one.

> Lastly, the 49er bees are real close to needing a second story. They
> had their new home almost totally constructed within a week after
> hiving.

Reply:

Yes, you will find you will have to super them fast! Also best to plan on
working with 3 box brood chambers or unlimited broodchambers with 2-3 frames
of honey and pollen on the sides. Then consider the supers above the third
deep for honey. Thenyou keep opening up the third brood chamber and taking
honey when plugged and pullling up brood from below to keep the nest
unconjested and the queen laying. Basically, oldfashioned big strong
colonies.

Remember to cull the frames with drone cells to no more than 10% on any one
frame. Work these frames to the sides of the brood nest so the bees can put
honey in them and then extract and take out, or raise up into next higher
super to expand broodnest, or give bees also chance to put honey in, so you
can work out by going up. Either way, remember to work them out. It will
trigger brood cleaning for varroa and also stimulate drone rearing
throughout the active year for good queen matings.

Dee