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Subject: Re: Open Mesh Floors/Large Entrances
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 22:54:20 +0100
From: Erik Osterlund <honeybee@elgon.se>
To: BiologicalBeekeeping@egroups.com
Hi Dee
Well the hardest test as it
may seem, is to use no bottom at all, but put
the hive on a stand without any bottom at all. It may be done,
if you put
an excluder underneath to keep mice out. I had a friend who did
that once
to see what happened. First the stand has to be some way away
from the
ground, let's say about one foot (25-30 cm). My friend put an
empty box on
the stand then the excluder and two boxes of the colony. No top
entrance.
Well insulated boxes. Most perfect owervintering.
Myself I use simple uninsulated
tree boxes nowadays, with insulated top. No
top entrance, Tight top, plastic, than an inner cover with insulating
capabilities and an outer cover with also insulating capabilities.
The roof
covers actually one or two boxes (in this later case it should
be mentioned
that the boxes are shallows, 6" high (145 mm). The bottoms
are simple
uninsulated with 20 mm to the bottom lists of the frames. Thus
using an
entrance reducer in winter especially with 7 mm open up AND down
of it. At
the back corners (the coldest points) I have two circular holes
about 8 cm
in diameter (>3") covered by a netting. Most often I
winter two boxes full
of bees in autumn. They are sitting close to the bottom and up
at the top.
When it gets a little colder they often sits a little more to
one side and
tighter, but still often all the way from bottom to top. The
low frames and
the passage between the boxes makes it easier for the bees to
move. I would
say how much opening in the bottom depends on how windy it is
and how many
boxes you use for the colony during winter, How high up the top
of the hive
is from the bottom. The higher it is, if you use tight top, the
bigger
amount of netting you can and should use. If the apiary is very
windy in
winter, use smaller opening. I have used three boxes earlier
but was scared
from doing it when many hives died if "concrete honey"
a couple of years
ago. But this winter I have a couple of hives with the third
box on, full
of honey, on the strongest hives. Those are the ones sitting
the calmest
and nicest up till now. In spring, if you use a big netting opening
I would
think it's good to cover it in spring to help save heat. If you
use no
netting, just lifting the back of the hive 1/4" (6 mm) with
small sticks in
the back corners from the bottom helps the air circulation. But
the
American practise of an auger hole on the front of the upper
box,
especially when using three deeps and a standard bottom I think
is good
practise.
Erik in Sweden
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