From: Micky Lee <mlee4321@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 00:20:17 -0500
To: BiologicalBeekeeping@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: Just what is Biological Beekeeping?

I believe Forrest's analogy and Dee's response were right on target.

I would like to push the analogy a little further to ask, 'What should be
allowed?'

At the bottom of this web page: www.reallyrawhoney.com there is a link to
an offer to buy organic honey. Reading his requirements will give you an
idea what many users of organic foods expect. I disagree on several
counts. While I won't go into it in this post I may later, because he
brings up points that should be considered.

Certified Organic Farmers are required to keep records of everything put
on the soil and plants. There is an approved list and nothing else may
be used. Soil is tested for not allowed substances. All pesticide and
herbicide residue must be removed or converted to naturally occurring
substances before certification is granted.

Under current standards an organic farmer must use untreated seed. Under
the new federal standards, the seed must not be chemically treated, GM
free, and produced in a Certified Organic field.

Wording in the new federal standards indicate that fertilizer and water
placed in a field must not contain pesticide residue, herbicide residue
or certain medicinal residue. Some are interpreting this to mean that
horse manure must come from horses fed exclusively a certified diet,
others believe it will be necessary to test manure for residue. Water
may have to be tested for residue.

Under new federal standards manure must be placed on the field at least
two months before planting.

Many organic pesticides are not safe, and are not approved for any use.
As a child, we used the contents of dad's ash tray as a pesticide. Many
commercial pesticides contained nicotine. Nicotine is a very poisonous
pesticide. Nicotine is now not allowed in most commercial pesticides for
any use. I seriously doubt anyone with organic leanings would use this
organic pesticide.

No chemical pesticide would be used by any organic gardener. Plant
derived pyrethrum might be used, but not synthetic ones.

Human urine is a great organic source of nitrogen. It is used by many
organic gardeners. It is not approved, if you want certification. As a
gardener growing my own food, I add alfalfa meal to my compost pile. I
wish I could believe it contained no pesticides.

Much of the expense of certification is testing and record keeping. Now
that agribusiness has entered the lucrative organic market, organically
produced fruits and vegetables are being tested for several hundred
contaminants that other foods are tested for. The one outstanding
testable difference between organically produced and other vegetables is,
"organically produced vegetables are pesticide free."

Now, to raise the questions I will set up an EXTREME example. Some
questions may seem very far fetched. But, some users of organic food are
this picky. One group I belong to has a couple of good researchers in
it.

If I built a hive of certified organic untreated lumber. And the coating
on the nails and the glue I might use contained no forbidden substances.
And if I used certified organic wax. If I further installed a certified
package of bees. I could begin with a certified organic colony.

If I placed them in the middle of an organic farm that was ten miles
square and did not feed them or use any substance to control disease or
mites or beetles, I could maintain an organic colony.

Any untreated lumber, like cypress, should be acceptable. Womanized,
creosote, etc. would not be permitted. But, remembering that beeswax is
a chemical sponge. Does wafer board and plywood contain formaldehyde? If
so, beeswax will absorb it. Should we consider fumes from paint? Many
beekeepers paint occupied hives. No way to test to see if fumes are
absorbed by the beeswax.

Coated nails shouldn't be a problem. How about glue? Should there a
requirement that glue be allowed to dry for some length of time before
being placed in a hive? Again, no way to test to see if chemicals get in
the beeswax.

Organic wax: I have no idea what it costs to test wax for pesticide
residue. I do not know if or how much beeswax can be cleaned. I want
affordable foundation, certified pesticide free! I applaud those that
make their own, however it is something I do not want to get into.

I believe several states have passed laws; requiring bees shipped into
them, contain a pesticide strip. I believe this should be allowed.

Do bees, sometimes, bring undesirable substances into the hive? The test
to find out is available. Someone needs to test honey from several
locations to find out. Then it can be determined whether or not certain
forages should be banned. A final test, for pesticides, of all certified
organic honey might not be a bad idea. At this point there is zero
tolerance for pesticides in certified organic vegetables. We should not
accept less.

I know of four natural substances being used to control mites:

Formic acid: Bee venom and honey contain formic acid. There are those
that claim it is safe to use formic acid when the honey supers are on,
even though it might increase the amount formic acid in the honey. I
WILL NOT USE FORMIC ACID.

Corn oil: Is not acceptable on two counts. Genetic resistance to
tracheal mites is readily available. All corn oil must be assumed to be
genetically modified to contain a pesticide. Other effective oils could
be considered [all soy bean oil must also be considered genetically
modified]

Tobacco smoke: Though natural, it is absorbed by beeswax. I know a
beekeeper growing tobacco organically to use in his smoker. I will not
use it because I consider it too toxic. It is certainly more toxic than
pyrethrums.

Peppermint and/or Wintergreen oil: I will use peppermint and/or
wintergreen oil when feeding nucs, until I am fully sized down to 4.9.

Feeding is seldom necessary in properly managed hives. Honey is best but
not always available. Corn syrup must be considered genetically
modified. I will use beet and/or cane sugar when necessary.

Right now, I am not building new equipment. I am a convert, trying to
clean up my hives and make them usable. Cutting out old comb, I should
scrape out all the contaminated wax I can. I should do all frames at
once [to prevent migration]. Will boiling the frames remove contaminates
or will it drive them into the wood? Should I be allowed to use the old
frames? boxes? It depends on whether or not I can get out the residue of
previously used medicines. No test available. I expect I'll build new
equipment before I can claim organic.

I have more issues I want to address but this is too long now. and for
the fourth night in a row it is past midnight trying to get this written.

Micky